600

Hello.

1) Water pump is done. I used my own CNC impeller made of bronze. I can offer it for better price compared to original cast iron.

2) Front main seal is replaced. I had to build some proprietary tools to do it. I'm ready to share it within EU.

3) The crankshaft pulley had a groove that was removed on CNC.

4) Oil/Water wax regulator for fan clutch was resealed as it was leaking. There is a special aluminium seal ring A 189 997 01 40 that is NLA so I had to laser cut it. I still have some available if someone is interested.

5) I bought used Bosh EFEP 385A injection pump test stand. I plan to open the black box of MFI repair and testing. Wish me luck.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

One of the most terrible jobs that needs to be repeated 4 times!

I'm also progressing with water pump rebuild. Disassembly in progress. I was not able to remove the impeller without damage. I'm considering a CNC brass impeller instead of paying 400 EUR for OEM. It's a bit too much ... :-)

I can post a whole picture series on full rebuild if someone is interested.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

The A0059972582 compressor oil hose is rebuild now. I used Semperit TU40 Oil/Luft hose as it has thicker walls for better fit into the screw-in fittings. Re-plating the fitting was 4 USD and hose was 8 USD a meter. Much better compared to 200 USD new part.

Update: I'm replacing Semperit TU40 hose with Codan 3133 hose. Codan 3133 is rated up 130C and 10bar. It has inner FPM coating.

I'm now working on water pump rebuild. I'm trying to remove impeller without broking it. 

Also I'm waiting for CNC shop to crate adapter for removal of the crazy A1860310172 crankshaft nut as I need to replace leaking front main seal. I was not able to locate original splined adapter from MB. I will use standard nut once the seal will be replaced.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

The pump is out including the body. I will rebuild it in next couple of weeks.

It's was quite a pain to remove it as the KH pipes are blocking access to bolts. Nad I was missing deep socket to remove pointer screw.

It seems that front main seal will need replacing too. I hope I will be able to remove the crank pulley. I have a bad experience from my 6.3 where I was not able to get it off in car.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

The answer is: No, it's not possible to remove just the pump as bottom screw is not reachable due to belt drive. It's necessary to remove it including the pump body and separate it on the bench.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

I'm ready to remove the hydraulic fan clutch / water pump. Is it necessary to remove it including the housing (unscrew it from the block). Or is it possible to remove just the pump/clutch assembly and leave the pump housing bolted on the engine block? Thanks for sugestions. I'm asking as the workshop manual asks for disconnection of komfort hydralick lines but the lines are interfering with the housing only.

I'm now also replacing the double roller bearing of air compressor tensioner as it's bad. I have the one belt design with tensioner.

Please see pictures of air compressor oil hose. It's stamped 1966! I'm replating the adapters and will replace the hose. I'm lucky as it's the old style screw-in design!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Engine is running again. The rattling noise is gone. Unfortunately I just discovered two new issues!

1) The radiator started leaking. I replaced the incorrect yellow antifreeze with correct MB liquid. It seems that the new fluid started dissolving all the sediments that were covering holes in the radiator. So I have just onother radiator for rebuild. I have done radiator repairs on almost all my cars.

2) The hydraulic fan clutch started leaking in the front and it's spraying oil all over the engine bay. I have already ordered parts for the rebuild and will follow thread from this forum and MB workshop manual for rebuild. 

It's endless ... I still have about half of the komfort hydraulic system to replace port seals and the vacuum systems is horrible too.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

New chain is in. Plastic adapter was good enough. New tensioner will be installed tomorrow. I will check the timing too.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

New slide rails are in. Pins are sealed with PETEC Gewinde Dichtung.

I'm trying to 3D print adapter for crack-case bolt now (I have the old style splined version with crown). Prototype from PLA fits. I will print it from something more durable. I hope that it will me strong enough to turn the engine without spark plugs. I have Haas CNC as a backup to make it of steel.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Let me give you some updates.

Hydraulics)

I successfully rebuild drivers’ doors. Replaced all pressure port seals and piston seal in the lock. I have not replaced seal in windows piston as it’s not leaking from piston. (of course, pressure ports were leaking). I learned that dismantling the window piston is quire a job and it includes some glueing too (was told by Woerle). 

Vacuum) 

I’m replacing old-style elements that are not rebuildable with new style. That includes modification or manufacturing of new brackets. See my other thread.

Bumpers)

I finally received new stainless-steel bumper set but it’s still in the box. I will provide report once the bumpers will be on the car.

Timing chain)

Engine started to sound terrible and there is a knocking from area around the pump. Long story short the chain is bad (190 000 km on original chain) and two upper rails are cut to aluminum. I think the photos will demonstrate the situation. Having the crank shaft at TDC gave about 10 BTDC od left bank and 15BTDC on right! I bought NOS aluminum-backed rails as I don’t believe in M123 replacement plastic trash. I bought chain from Renolds (06 B2* RENOLD - A. & S.) as suggested in other thread here. I will use zip-tie procedure to wind it in. Removing slide rail pins was just a fun. There is no space for reverse hammer so I used long M6 screw and socket to pull it out.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I have a great news. There is now a source for KH piston repair seal kit. It's possible to repair pistons DIY!

I'm sure it's not for everyone but I would like to try as I have some experience with such repairs.

I'm in touch with them to get/produce switches seal rings too.

https://shop.rscauto.de/MB-600---W100/c1526643_u15545_z42f5fa21-fdeb-4aa5-8eac-6aa3bd88c005/

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I found a hydraulic oil self spraying and penetrating system after opening the door boards! It was expected situation as oil was leaking from the doors when safety shut valve was kept open. Now I'm in process of replacing guide rings and seals on all the connections. It seems that some switches will need rebuild too. I decided to do this job myself as I'm a crazy enough to think that's possible. Unfortunately the seals are no available publicly. I asked all well known KH rebuilders for seals. No luck, only full rebuild as service is possible.

I'm planning to get the seals manufactured from Viton or HNBR. Will share my successes and failures with you.

Replacing the guide ring is quite a pain. Getting them out is not and easy task. I'm using imperial sized screw grinded to spike that screws inside the guide ring.

By the wat the guide ring are available in two different sizes. Martin from 600airsuspensionshop sells the smaller +0.01-0.02mm oversize while the rest (Woerle and chromschrauben24.de) are selling +0.03-0.04mm oversize.

I prefer those from Martin as they are easier to press in and it's less destructive for the bore. MB original I removed from the car are +0.03mm or bigger.

Seals from Martin and Woerle are the same but those from chromschrauben24.de are a bit thinner while keeping same inner and outer diameter as others.

I’m now building a 200 Bar test stand so I can check various seals and connectors. I would like to test if Stauff Test 10 coupling (3.3mm diameter) or Stasto 33TD0000 (3.25mm) are fully compatible with KH. I can buy Stasto 33TD0000 couplings and hoses from local hydraulic shop for just 0,3USD per coupling + hose and labor price!

Wish me a luck please!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Replacing vent window seal is a great fun! ... No ... it's not.

What cement should be used to to glue whole vent window assembly to the door frame?

I need a new window run channels. Is it possible to use W108 channels A0009851830 instead of W100 specific A0009851630?

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

Drain valves are back in car with new Viton flat seals. I left it with 15 bar in the system. I hope it will stay pressurized.

Whish me luck. 

Suspension repairs om till now:

new pressure sensor

• 2 control valves rebuild
• rusted height control steel line replaced with CuNiFe
• 1 control rod installed as it was missing
• 1 rods got new ball joints as plastic was disintegrating

ToDo:

comfort hydraulics leaks

some window seals (hard as a rock)

rattling tensioner and valve clearance

whistling left side alternator

central locking

new stainless steel bumpers (very cheap from Asia .. will arrive soon, will report on quality)

external temperature gauge

new tires

replace external electronic ignition box with Pertronics

leaking fan clutch

leaking shock absorbers

enjoy the ride

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

CuNiFe tube is in place and refurbished valve is back from Germany. My 600 is able to move up and down at the rear again!

Now I'm chasing leak at drain valves. The little flat seal ring was hard like a stone. It's very non standard size 5.6mm (inner) x 9mm (outer) ring. I have order a small batch of 50pcs to be made for me from Viton. Next on the list is rattling tensioner.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

Refurbished rear control valve is in place. Control rod ball joints where replaced with STR 100405 and LEMFÖRDER 1649502 as they are same as OEM but much cheaper compared to OEM.

Issue with rear ride height control was identified to rust clogged and semi cracked steel line under drivers seat right where the line passes thorough the frame hole. There is a rubber sleave over the steel to prevent vibration damage but it's also great to keep water around the steel line and build the rust.

I'm now waiting for zinc replating of the old attachment parts and will place new CuNiFe pipe there soon.

I guess I will need both front suspension valves refurbished too as the car will keep its height in front only for a week.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I have update regarding rear leveling valve. It's out of the car now and it will go to Germany for rebuild as it seems to have a small leak at the shaft. The issue with malfunctioning increased driving height is caused by blocked (probably by rust) line from the front of the car. I have a pressure at the regulator and at the T union in engine compartment. There is no pressure at the back neither at the union bellow the driver’s door. I believe this is linked to the way this particular pressure line is used. There is no permanent air flow compared to other two pressure lines. Also the antifreeze device was empty so there was nothing to help with humidity in the system. I'm planning to replace the lines with CuNiFe.

Is it a common issue on 600? On my 6.3 there were already both air lines replaced with copper when I bought it.

Both ball joints where cracked and fallen apart during removal. It will be replaced. I have already replaced front left ones so I will replace also the front right side as a precaution. It seems that the plastic insert is degraded and prone to crack.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I will check the tensioner once the car will be back at heated garage. My engine sound is a bit different. Here is my recording with cold engine.  

20231124_130057.mp4

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I had problems with the chain tensioner losing pretension after about an hour of driving. Then I experienced a rattling sound. When I pushed the tensioner in, small airbubbels came out, it went stiff, as it is supposed to be, and no sound. One hour of driving later...... same s..t. Tried with two different tensioners bought in 2013 from Mercedes. Same result on both.

https://youtu.be/57r0s3hDtik

So I sent the tensioner (and some money) to woerle-fahrzeugtechnik.com/ and they fixed it.

btw, I have one spare......

70 300SEL 6,3

82 280SL

06 350CLS

Fuel hoses are safe again. I also exchanged membrane in the front damper.

Now I will focus on rear suspension valve as the car will stay up only for about 3 days. Also I found air leak through pins of air pressure warning switch. We are manufaturing replica now. I will post photos as it will be available. It's based on brand new German manufactured device with fresh membrane. I'm not a big fan of NOS parts with rubber inside. 

Next issue is a knocking sound during idle from engine timing chain tensioner area. I guess it's stuck or the chain is bad.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)