600

Hello.

Some update.

I'm still fighting rust issues in front end (lamp buckets, front bumper holder, battery tray area). Anti gravel unercoating was partially cracked so there were rust spots under it. I will do new coating with Roberlo Hidrotex. I have replaced all three seals for summer air flaps and seals on both heating flaps. 

I have discovered leak at power steering pump. Febi 08711 aka A 000 586 55 46 will cure it later.

AC work is suspended as one Aeroquip hose (FC802-8) is not available in Europe now and will arrive in early May from US!

I’m also considering replacing oil pump tensioner rail with A1161811059 as my original one is missing the plastic pad completely. You know I love removing crankshaft pulley! 

I'm replacing rubber hoses on central locking as the rubber was hard and causing leaks. I had to replace two membranes too.

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

Hello.

I'm new rebuilding the receiver drier with new desiccant as I can't use R22 in EU so conversion t R134a is mandatory.

Heater box will get new seals and hoses. Heater blower need new rubber buffers as it's sagging too low and rubbing the box.

Air Conditioning blower switch (on top of the console between the front seats on newer cars) is stuck as the resistor wire is loose. Do you have any suggestion what glue to use? I tend to use high temp epoxy.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

I managed to get replacement flap from US! What a miracle.

Now I'm curing rusted floor.

Whole AC was remove so I lost the precious R12 that's not available in EU. I will convert AC to R134a.

It's also great oportunity to remove heater box. I will change blower rubber mounts because the blower wheel is sometimes touching the walls as the rubber is tired.

Also new hoses and gromets will be installed.

My biggest project now is the AC control unit.

All KH elements are resealed now. Chrome levers replaced with new from Thomas Jäkel.

There were many problems. I found one cracked solder on the wire to microswitch connection. Plastic coupling connecting unit with the electrical box was cracked.

Whole vacuum element and bracket assembly for summer air flap closing is missing.

I now manufacturing a replica now using vacuum element from R107 trunk lock.

.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Working on the summer air flap. You need really long tools!

Unfortunately one of flaps has cracked base. Will model it in 3D a print it on our Prusa printer.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Just a quick update.

My first rebuild door piston is holding pressure for 2 days already!

New leak developed from suspension switch on steering column. It's not easy to remove the switch, but it's done.

Replacing the port seals is same task as elsewhere. Unfortunately the hole at the bottom of the lever is worn to oval. I'm not aware of replacement available. I replaced the seal on the control rods and set the screws. Let's hope it will hold for some more years.

I got two new OEM seals for fresh air flaps and I'm preparing new silicone seals for the trim now.

Also some rust prevention will be necessary in the air ducts under the flaps.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

I gave myself a gift. The KH system was pressurized again after almost a year! Let's hope for no leaks.

I still have one more door piston to glue, paint and test. But I was so eager that I just plugged the pipes and opened the valve.

Work on KH till now:

- replaced all port seals in doors and trunk

- replaced all leaking inner seals on switches in doors

- replaced inner seals on one window piston as it was leaking at rod

- clean and rebuild of all door locks including hydraulic pistons and switches

- trunk lock rebuild

- trunk lid piston port seal replaced

- shutoff valve at engine compartment was rebuild

For some valves I had to manufacture new POM plastic inner parts as they were leaking. Now I'm testing various glues to stick window piston valve head. Unfortunately, the companies rebuilding W100 hydraulic for crazy money won't share they know-how. I only got limited instruction to use basic epoxy glue without any specific product recommendation. I'm now waiting for delivery of slow curing liquid epoxy resin that will be tested. I need something that will disintegrate at max 220C as the original Bosch glue so the piston will be rebuildable again if necessary.

I also developed a process to remove port seal brass ring without any damage so you just need to replace rubber square ring. 

Working on 600 is a real joy. But you need a lot of free time. It's so complex and satisfying when done.

Next item on the list:

- climate control panel including outdoor thermometer

- rear window and side windows seals

- tranny speedometer reseal (I bought new drive from Woerle that should cure the well knows problem)

- some welding on the rear and bottom + little respray

- ENJOY THE CRAZY CAR FINALLY!

Regards

Filip

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

1) Water pump is done. I used my own CNC impeller made of bronze. I can offer it for better price compared to original cast iron.

2) Front main seal is replaced. I had to build some proprietary tools to do it. I'm ready to share it within EU.

3) The crankshaft pulley had a groove that was removed on CNC.

4) Oil/Water wax regulator for fan clutch was resealed as it was leaking. There is a special aluminium seal ring A 189 997 01 40 that is NLA so I had to laser cut it. I still have some available if someone is interested.

5) I bought used Bosh EFEP 385A injection pump test stand. I plan to open the black box of MFI repair and testing. Wish me luck.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

One of the most terrible jobs that needs to be repeated 4 times!

I'm also progressing with water pump rebuild. Disassembly in progress. I was not able to remove the impeller without damage. I'm considering a CNC brass impeller instead of paying 400 EUR for OEM. It's a bit too much ... :-)

I can post a whole picture series on full rebuild if someone is interested.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

The A0059972582 compressor oil hose is rebuild now. I used Semperit TU40 Oil/Luft hose as it has thicker walls for better fit into the screw-in fittings. Re-plating the fitting was 4 USD and hose was 8 USD a meter. Much better compared to 200 USD new part.

Update: I'm replacing Semperit TU40 hose with Codan 3133 hose. Codan 3133 is rated up 130C and 10bar. It has inner FPM coating.

I'm now working on water pump rebuild. I'm trying to remove impeller without broking it. 

Also I'm waiting for CNC shop to crate adapter for removal of the crazy A1860310172 crankshaft nut as I need to replace leaking front main seal. I was not able to locate original splined adapter from MB. I will use standard nut once the seal will be replaced.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

The pump is out including the body. I will rebuild it in next couple of weeks.

It's was quite a pain to remove it as the KH pipes are blocking access to bolts. Nad I was missing deep socket to remove pointer screw.

It seems that front main seal will need replacing too. I hope I will be able to remove the crank pulley. I have a bad experience from my 6.3 where I was not able to get it off in car.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

The answer is: No, it's not possible to remove just the pump as bottom screw is not reachable due to belt drive. It's necessary to remove it including the pump body and separate it on the bench.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

I'm ready to remove the hydraulic fan clutch / water pump. Is it necessary to remove it including the housing (unscrew it from the block). Or is it possible to remove just the pump/clutch assembly and leave the pump housing bolted on the engine block? Thanks for sugestions. I'm asking as the workshop manual asks for disconnection of komfort hydralick lines but the lines are interfering with the housing only.

I'm now also replacing the double roller bearing of air compressor tensioner as it's bad. I have the one belt design with tensioner.

Please see pictures of air compressor oil hose. It's stamped 1966! I'm replating the adapters and will replace the hose. I'm lucky as it's the old style screw-in design!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Engine is running again. The rattling noise is gone. Unfortunately I just discovered two new issues!

1) The radiator started leaking. I replaced the incorrect yellow antifreeze with correct MB liquid. It seems that the new fluid started dissolving all the sediments that were covering holes in the radiator. So I have just onother radiator for rebuild. I have done radiator repairs on almost all my cars.

2) The hydraulic fan clutch started leaking in the front and it's spraying oil all over the engine bay. I have already ordered parts for the rebuild and will follow thread from this forum and MB workshop manual for rebuild. 

It's endless ... I still have about half of the komfort hydraulic system to replace port seals and the vacuum systems is horrible too.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

New chain is in. Plastic adapter was good enough. New tensioner will be installed tomorrow. I will check the timing too.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

New slide rails are in. Pins are sealed with PETEC Gewinde Dichtung.

I'm trying to 3D print adapter for crack-case bolt now (I have the old style splined version with crown). Prototype from PLA fits. I will print it from something more durable. I hope that it will me strong enough to turn the engine without spark plugs. I have Haas CNC as a backup to make it of steel.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Let me give you some updates.

Hydraulics)

I successfully rebuild drivers’ doors. Replaced all pressure port seals and piston seal in the lock. I have not replaced seal in windows piston as it’s not leaking from piston. (of course, pressure ports were leaking). I learned that dismantling the window piston is quire a job and it includes some glueing too (was told by Woerle). 

Vacuum) 

I’m replacing old-style elements that are not rebuildable with new style. That includes modification or manufacturing of new brackets. See my other thread.

Bumpers)

I finally received new stainless-steel bumper set but it’s still in the box. I will provide report once the bumpers will be on the car.

Timing chain)

Engine started to sound terrible and there is a knocking from area around the pump. Long story short the chain is bad (190 000 km on original chain) and two upper rails are cut to aluminum. I think the photos will demonstrate the situation. Having the crank shaft at TDC gave about 10 BTDC od left bank and 15BTDC on right! I bought NOS aluminum-backed rails as I don’t believe in M123 replacement plastic trash. I bought chain from Renolds (06 B2* RENOLD - A. & S.) as suggested in other thread here. I will use zip-tie procedure to wind it in. Removing slide rail pins was just a fun. There is no space for reverse hammer so I used long M6 screw and socket to pull it out.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I have a great news. There is now a source for KH piston repair seal kit. It's possible to repair pistons DIY!

I'm sure it's not for everyone but I would like to try as I have some experience with such repairs.

I'm in touch with them to get/produce switches seal rings too.

https://shop.rscauto.de/MB-600---W100/c1526643_u15545_z42f5fa21-fdeb-4aa5-8eac-6aa3bd88c005/

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I found a hydraulic oil self spraying and penetrating system after opening the door boards! It was expected situation as oil was leaking from the doors when safety shut valve was kept open. Now I'm in process of replacing guide rings and seals on all the connections. It seems that some switches will need rebuild too. I decided to do this job myself as I'm a crazy enough to think that's possible. Unfortunately the seals are no available publicly. I asked all well known KH rebuilders for seals. No luck, only full rebuild as service is possible.

I'm planning to get the seals manufactured from Viton or HNBR. Will share my successes and failures with you.

Replacing the guide ring is quite a pain. Getting them out is not and easy task. I'm using imperial sized screw grinded to spike that screws inside the guide ring.

By the wat the guide ring are available in two different sizes. Martin from 600airsuspensionshop sells the smaller +0.01-0.02mm oversize while the rest (Woerle and chromschrauben24.de) are selling +0.03-0.04mm oversize.

I prefer those from Martin as they are easier to press in and it's less destructive for the bore. MB original I removed from the car are +0.03mm or bigger.

Seals from Martin and Woerle are the same but those from chromschrauben24.de are a bit thinner while keeping same inner and outer diameter as others.

I’m now building a 200 Bar test stand so I can check various seals and connectors. I would like to test if Stauff Test 10 coupling (3.3mm diameter) or Stasto 33TD0000 (3.25mm) are fully compatible with KH. I can buy Stasto 33TD0000 couplings and hoses from local hydraulic shop for just 0,3USD per coupling + hose and labor price!

Wish me a luck please!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Replacing vent window seal is a great fun! ... No ... it's not.

What cement should be used to to glue whole vent window assembly to the door frame?

I need a new window run channels. Is it possible to use W108 channels A0009851830 instead of W100 specific A0009851630?

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

Drain valves are back in car with new Viton flat seals. I left it with 15 bar in the system. I hope it will stay pressurized.

Whish me luck. 

Suspension repairs om till now:

new pressure sensor

• 2 control valves rebuild
• rusted height control steel line replaced with CuNiFe
• 1 control rod installed as it was missing
• 1 rods got new ball joints as plastic was disintegrating

ToDo:

comfort hydraulics leaks

some window seals (hard as a rock)

rattling tensioner and valve clearance

whistling left side alternator

central locking

new stainless steel bumpers (very cheap from Asia .. will arrive soon, will report on quality)

external temperature gauge

new tires

replace external electronic ignition box with Pertronics

leaking fan clutch

leaking shock absorbers

enjoy the ride

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)