600

Hello.

My new #796 is now with me after the journey across the ocean. Unfortunately there was a damage on the exhaust as the company ignored my instruction about pneumatic suspension. Anyway the car is here and I have couple of topics to ask about.

1) As expected there is and comfort hydraulic oil leak in passengers door. Is it common? What should I expect to deal with?

2) Control of rear right windows is not working. The lever is somewhat out center position. Any thoughts?

3) Engine compartment light (I guess it's A1008250142) is broken. There is a residuum of the base but no bulb nor the cover. It's NLA. May I ask you for picture of it so that I can find some close replacement? Isn't it made by Hella or Bosch with some non MB part number on it?

4) The insulation/pad off front bonnet has separated and dissolved into engine compartment. Is there some recommended material/fabric to use instead? Alternatively a new paint from inner side is necessary as bonnet had no insulation from factory to my knowledge. Any recommendations?

The car was not driven for almost ten years so I'm doing full maintenance. Please let me know if my list is complete:

Oil change for 20W50 with high ZDDP + filter + drain oil cooler too (there is no extra filter for fan clutch on my car) and I have modified "black" oil stick already.

Oil change in injection pump + check for leakage of the engine oil to the pump via inner seal

Petrol filter

ATF + Filter

Steering ATF + Filter

Coolant change

Brak fluid change

Rear gear oil change (will use SAE 90 with Limited Slip additive)

Comfort hydralic oil change

Refill alcohol for pneumatic suspension + drain the tank

Grese all zergs

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello Felip,

Congratulations on the arrival of the new-to-you 600SWB. Sorry to hear about the damages done during transport.

You asked a couple of questions I may be able to assist you in answering. (Emphasis on the word "may.")

You asked the following:

1) As expected there is and comfort hydraulic oil leak in passengers door. Is it common? What should I expect to deal with?

Simply put, the hydraulics, and of course the culprit would be the O-Rings. If you are not proficient in working with hydraulics, seek out a proficient mechanic that works on fork lifts, as that person should be knowledgeable about hydraulics.

2) Control of rear right windows is not working. The lever is somewhat out center position. Any thoughts?

Have the fork lift mechanic take a look at that switch as well.

On BaT, there is a frequent poster named Frenchbuff that is focused on Citroen vehicles. He has chimed in a few times on different threads about the simplicity of working with the 600 hydraulic systems. I will share a rather long-winded post below from Frenchbuff about a different 600SWB:

Porkpiehat, the hydraulic system runs a bit higher than 2000 psi – it’s officially 2700 psi, but that’s nothing if one has ever had a DS19 from 1955, or DS21 after 1965 – they all ran 2500 psi routinely and did a superb job with hydraulics such as the world hasn’t seen since, and the parts were cheap relatively to any similar part from MB.

Having rebuilt & restored to function that system on Jacques Littlefield’s ’65 Merc SWB car about 8 yrs ago for peanuts compared to any MB shop, if you know hydraulics, you can work around MB costs easily. Jacques had bought the car out of some LV collection, but had never used it on the road for the 3 yrs he had it before I came along. When I called him and volunteered to help him with his 6-engined Panhard EBR reconnaissance twin-cockpit vehicle in his 280 military vehicle collection, he told me to forget the Panhard and see if I could fix the hydraulics on his Merc as he’d never been able to close the windows on the car due to massive leaks. Turned out his pressure accumulator had been blown, and that was $7000 from MB. His driver’s door master toggle valve switch controlling all 4 windows, and which was the source of the leaks was $13,000 to replace! (I think they just whacked it out of a billet to order…..). Big problem was some so-called MB mechanic in Menlo park had soaked him several big ones and actually made it worse – the internal pressure regulator was set, not to the 2700 psi in the book, but 3700 psi!!!!! Which blew all the door seals. Heck, I just mounted the engine-driven pump in a vise, spun it up with a home-made handcrank to test and WOW! No wonder the flood. Oh, and the pump with reg. itself was $6500 from the usual suspects. The fix was to change two thin shims in the reg. to drop the pressure to the right number. I’m sure Jacques wouldn’t have minded me special-ordering the MB parts as he’d only inherited 2.7 Billion, but he was also quite cost-conscious having been ripped off by numerous WWII tank sellers during his collecting.

The fixes? Custom-pressurized hyd. accumulator from Parker Hydraulics right out of their catalogue for $350 – fit perfectly into BOSCH accum. holding brackets. $25 of hardware store hydraulic couplers. I added two pressure gauges – one in eng. compartment for checking system pressure anytime. One under dash so driver knew exactly what was going on. And finally a valve and line directly to fluid tank to depressurize the system, which MB was TOO CHEAP to do – if you wanted to work on system, you had to cycle the windows up & down to bleed off the pressure – how idiotic is that??. Oh, and $20 worth of Orings from the local Redwood City hydraulics shop fixed the door switch leaks. So for about $500 worth of parts & my time, Jacques saved about $10-15K. That’s what a Citroen DS can teach you – it ain’t Rocket Science – it’s plumbing. So – now he could drive the car and close his windows and enjoy after 3 yrs of waiting and getting screwed once – not twice.

The link to that article on a "project 600SWB" is here, and it is worthwhile reading the numerous comments:

https://bringatrailer.com/2017/03/26/groser-projekt-1967-mercedes-benz-600-swb/#comment-1453856

p.s. Last year I found a gentlemen in Austria that is still making the "bump stops" for the front end, as well as the rear end, with the rubbers. I need to create a post, with pictures, as I'm sure many M-100 members may be interested in purchasing a set. The cost was about $500.00 USD.

York McGavin

1970 300SEL 6.3

I have some experience with my old old old fork-lift that's leaking oil from everywhere. Also I got a set of o-rings, washers and wire locks from 600 Comfort Hydraulics KH – 600 Air Suspension Shop with the car so I will give i a try myself.

My accumulator is working fine as the system operates without engine for quite some time.

My plan:

1) shut-off the emergency valve to keep the pressure in the engine side only

2) use windows to release the residual pressure

3) start working ...

I will ask my shop to build a pressure gauge with adapter for me to test the system pressure. Where is the best port to hook to?

Thank you

Filip

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hi Filip,

I search on BaT for Frenchbuff's email address, and I think I found it. I just sent him an email, and if he agrees, I will connect you two together.

In regards to your question as to where to attach a pressure gauge, I noticed you had some o-rings from Martin at 600AirSuspension. Martin also has a (expensive) pressure gauge, along with very specific instructions as to where is should be attached. Please see: https://600airsuspensionshop.com/collections/600-comfort-hydraulics-kh/products/externer-druckmesser-fuer-kh Follow the instructions from Martin, along with his pictures, for assistance.

I don't own a 600, but I wish I did. Also, on my best day, a shade tree mechanic can leave me in the dust. And, I'm just learning how to work with this clumsy message board.

Hopefully, some of our fellow members, who are far more knowledgeable, could chime in and assist Filip?

York McGavin

1970 300SEL 6.3

Filip,

My guess at the email address for Frenchbuff was correct; we spoke over the weekend; and, he is willing to assist you with your hydraulic projects on your new-to-you 600.

I am sending you a private message, from within the M-100 Forums, providing you with his email address, as well as his phone number.

York McGavin

1970 300SEL 6.3

Thank you!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

Let me report status of the works done on my 600. 

All the fluids and filters are replaced. All the old filters were date coded around 2001! The car was not running smooth. I had to remove the fuel tank and do acid flush as there was rust sediment about 1cm deep. I cleaned strainers in fuel tank and fuel pump. Luckily the fuel filter in engine bay was very clean but I replaced it anyway.

Heating water valve under the car for the back was stuck closed but I managed to clean it. Rubber hoses behind the back seat were already replaced by previous owner so no risk there.

The car runs and drives great now. Frankly speaking I was very surprised how much it’s different to W109 6.3. It so smooth, calm and silent. It’s boating not driving!

TODO:

Comfort hydraulics – I have about 5 leaks (trunk lid actuator, trunk lid controls, both right doors …) I will buy a lot of special seals and brass ring from Germany and will try to do my best with help of Frenchbuff and other guys here.

Instrument cluster backlight – it’s all dead. I guess it’s the dimmer. I had the same problem on 6.3

Engine temperature and ambient temperature gauge – both are dead. I have a local company that will fix it for about 200 EUR each.

Rattling in the steering wheel while driving over bumps – I will do further inspection of the steering components. The rubber connection at the steering box is fine. I guess it will be some ball joint. Or ball bearing under the steering wheel is bad.

Brakes – I’m very lucky as all pads and disks are brand new! Brake booster boosts great but the brake pedal movement is not smooth. I feel some jerkyness while pressing it even in the initial dead zone. Any ideas?

Glass seals – I got new rear and rear side fixed windows seals with the car as they are hard as wood and cracked. Windshield seal was replaced already and is soft. I already ordered new seal for both vent windows as they are partly missing. They have new production available from MB Classic. They are hell expensive – 700 EUR each!

Rust – there is a little rust hole under passenger carpet where the exhaust rubber buffer was supposed to be. It will need some welding. There is a lot of rust under rear chrome molding between tail light. I found it during right cracked taillight plastic replacement.

Bumpers – previous owner made more than 20 deep dents there! I will do complete re-surfacing over the winter.

MFI – I found black oil pouring out of the MFI during oil exchange. I’m sure that the internal seal is shot but MFI is working great so I will postpone this topic for later….

Paint – There is one home made overpaint on the car that’s very ugly. I will do full repaint in the future.

Mirrors – I will replace outside mirrors glass with convex ones from W115 as it’s much safer and I have great experience with it from 6.3.

Exhaust – we managed to cut – bend – weld the damaged stainless pipes back in place.

Air suspension – Bags are working but almost dead. See pictures. I have a new set on the way. There is a leak on the back. The valve is definitely bad as the car won’t go to upper position. It will be refurbished. The rear upper rubber stops are crushed as the car sat on them for 20 years. MB wants EUR 350 / each. I'll probably cast them myself from polyurethane. The rest is working great.

Antenna – I have to check the antenna. I guess it should be automatic but it’s not moving. Probably it’s seized or replaced with hand operated.

Ignition – There is some ugly looking but great working power box at the V of the engine. I will replace it with Pertronix later.

Thanks for suggestions.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Here are some news.

- Engine termperature gauge is refurbished.

- I got two new convex outside mirror glass. I'm wating for plastic frames now.

- I received new vent windows rubber seals.Got 9% discount but still it's too expensive.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

That temp gauge turned at swell! Where was it sent? Looks like a new coupler/sensor.

There is a company here in Czech Republic doing this for all ether based gauges. They also promised to take care of the ambient temp gauge. They have new CNC machined parts for all VDO and even other brands gauges available.

Their web is http://www.strojvo.eu/opravy-teplomeru.html unfortunately not in English. Just send them a message by email or WhatsUp to +420 775 774 776. They will respond in English. They ship worldwide. I can provide local support with gauge repair for any M100 group member if somebody is intersected. I paid less than 200 EUR for repair as they replaced only the sensor + capillary tube + new ether refill + calibration. The gauge mechanical parts were working great but this company is able to fix that too including the re-paint or chrome/zinc parts.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Very impressive work on the temperature gauge. That is a good resource to have for the club. I know of a guy in Germany charging far more to repair them and last I heard it took over a year.

Hi. Here is update on my 600:

- In-tank fuel strainer was finally replaced. I also had to clean and resolder the sending unit. It’s working great again including the reserve contact. See picture (it's not too nice but you must be quick as the plastic is easy to melt).

- Replaced seal on tail lights bulb plates

- Replaced seal and glass on both license plate lights. Fasteners replaced with stainless steel for easy future de-assembly

- New convex side mirror glasses and frames are installed

- Instrument cluster backlight brightness regulator cleaned. Contacts polished. It works again.

- Dome light timer inside cleaned and it’s alive again!

- Fuel leak from front fuel pressure damper area started during return from my last ride. It was really bad. I was very afraid of burning the car down. I will check/swap the membrane and both fuel hoses connecting engine witch chassis.

- New air bellows finally arrived. I’m very lucky as both sets are manufactured this year.

- I just discovered that vacuum central locking is disconnected. I guess it will need full check and reseal (possibly new membranes and so .. ). I will do it with comfort hydralics as all covering will be removed anyway.

- Planning to replace ugly electronic ignition box that previous owner mount right on tom of the injection pump with Pertronix from my other car. I just sent one of my ignition distributors to get it rebuild with 123 ignition. They will keep the original Bosch housing including the vacuum box so it will look very original.

- I will remove front and rear bumper this week to send it for replating

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Fuel Leak Update:

The leak was identified at the aluminum crush washer on the fuel damper side towards the water pump. It was not tight at all! I guess somebody has replaced the hose (date coded 1996) from the damper to fuel filter box and he has not tightened it correctly. I have removed the damper and checked the membrane. It was leaking at the rivet. New membrane is on order.

I also removed the return hose from engine to the firewall. It was rusted in the thread and required extreme force and special equipment to hold the hard-line from turning (hose special crowfoot key) The hose is for sure the original one from 1967! Tomorrow we will fight the one on fender side to fuel filter as it's 1967 made too.

I will reuse fittings that are not rusted and replace the rest. I don't plan buying MB hoses as they are overpriced and our local tractor supply shop uses 30R9 hoses so it will very resistant and high quality.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Fuel hoses are safe again. I also exchanged membrane in the front damper.

Now I will focus on rear suspension valve as the car will stay up only for about 3 days. Also I found air leak through pins of air pressure warning switch. We are manufaturing replica now. I will post photos as it will be available. It's based on brand new German manufactured device with fresh membrane. I'm not a big fan of NOS parts with rubber inside. 

Next issue is a knocking sound during idle from engine timing chain tensioner area. I guess it's stuck or the chain is bad.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I had problems with the chain tensioner losing pretension after about an hour of driving. Then I experienced a rattling sound. When I pushed the tensioner in, small airbubbels came out, it went stiff, as it is supposed to be, and no sound. One hour of driving later...... same s..t. Tried with two different tensioners bought in 2013 from Mercedes. Same result on both.

https://youtu.be/57r0s3hDtik

So I sent the tensioner (and some money) to woerle-fahrzeugtechnik.com/ and they fixed it.

btw, I have one spare......

70 300SEL 6,3

82 280SL

06 350CLS

I will check the tensioner once the car will be back at heated garage. My engine sound is a bit different. Here is my recording with cold engine.  

20231124_130057.mp4

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I have update regarding rear leveling valve. It's out of the car now and it will go to Germany for rebuild as it seems to have a small leak at the shaft. The issue with malfunctioning increased driving height is caused by blocked (probably by rust) line from the front of the car. I have a pressure at the regulator and at the T union in engine compartment. There is no pressure at the back neither at the union bellow the driver’s door. I believe this is linked to the way this particular pressure line is used. There is no permanent air flow compared to other two pressure lines. Also the antifreeze device was empty so there was nothing to help with humidity in the system. I'm planning to replace the lines with CuNiFe.

Is it a common issue on 600? On my 6.3 there were already both air lines replaced with copper when I bought it.

Both ball joints where cracked and fallen apart during removal. It will be replaced. I have already replaced front left ones so I will replace also the front right side as a precaution. It seems that the plastic insert is degraded and prone to crack.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

Refurbished rear control valve is in place. Control rod ball joints where replaced with STR 100405 and LEMFÖRDER 1649502 as they are same as OEM but much cheaper compared to OEM.

Issue with rear ride height control was identified to rust clogged and semi cracked steel line under drivers seat right where the line passes thorough the frame hole. There is a rubber sleave over the steel to prevent vibration damage but it's also great to keep water around the steel line and build the rust.

I'm now waiting for zinc replating of the old attachment parts and will place new CuNiFe pipe there soon.

I guess I will need both front suspension valves refurbished too as the car will keep its height in front only for a week.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

CuNiFe tube is in place and refurbished valve is back from Germany. My 600 is able to move up and down at the rear again!

Now I'm chasing leak at drain valves. The little flat seal ring was hard like a stone. It's very non standard size 5.6mm (inner) x 9mm (outer) ring. I have order a small batch of 50pcs to be made for me from Viton. Next on the list is rattling tensioner.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

Drain valves are back in car with new Viton flat seals. I left it with 15 bar in the system. I hope it will stay pressurized.

Whish me luck. 

Suspension repairs om till now:

new pressure sensor

• 2 control valves rebuild
• rusted height control steel line replaced with CuNiFe
• 1 control rod installed as it was missing
• 1 rods got new ball joints as plastic was disintegrating

ToDo:

comfort hydraulics leaks

some window seals (hard as a rock)

rattling tensioner and valve clearance

whistling left side alternator

central locking

new stainless steel bumpers (very cheap from Asia .. will arrive soon, will report on quality)

external temperature gauge

new tires

replace external electronic ignition box with Pertronics

leaking fan clutch

leaking shock absorbers

enjoy the ride

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Replacing vent window seal is a great fun! ... No ... it's not.

What cement should be used to to glue whole vent window assembly to the door frame?

I need a new window run channels. Is it possible to use W108 channels A0009851830 instead of W100 specific A0009851630?

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I found a hydraulic oil self spraying and penetrating system after opening the door boards! It was expected situation as oil was leaking from the doors when safety shut valve was kept open. Now I'm in process of replacing guide rings and seals on all the connections. It seems that some switches will need rebuild too. I decided to do this job myself as I'm a crazy enough to think that's possible. Unfortunately the seals are no available publicly. I asked all well known KH rebuilders for seals. No luck, only full rebuild as service is possible.

I'm planning to get the seals manufactured from Viton or HNBR. Will share my successes and failures with you.

Replacing the guide ring is quite a pain. Getting them out is not and easy task. I'm using imperial sized screw grinded to spike that screws inside the guide ring.

By the wat the guide ring are available in two different sizes. Martin from 600airsuspensionshop sells the smaller +0.01-0.02mm oversize while the rest (Woerle and chromschrauben24.de) are selling +0.03-0.04mm oversize.

I prefer those from Martin as they are easier to press in and it's less destructive for the bore. MB original I removed from the car are +0.03mm or bigger.

Seals from Martin and Woerle are the same but those from chromschrauben24.de are a bit thinner while keeping same inner and outer diameter as others.

I’m now building a 200 Bar test stand so I can check various seals and connectors. I would like to test if Stauff Test 10 coupling (3.3mm diameter) or Stasto 33TD0000 (3.25mm) are fully compatible with KH. I can buy Stasto 33TD0000 couplings and hoses from local hydraulic shop for just 0,3USD per coupling + hose and labor price!

Wish me a luck please!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I have a great news. There is now a source for KH piston repair seal kit. It's possible to repair pistons DIY!

I'm sure it's not for everyone but I would like to try as I have some experience with such repairs.

I'm in touch with them to get/produce switches seal rings too.

https://shop.rscauto.de/MB-600---W100/c1526643_u15545_z42f5fa21-fdeb-4aa5-8eac-6aa3bd88c005/

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Let me give you some updates.

Hydraulics)

I successfully rebuild drivers’ doors. Replaced all pressure port seals and piston seal in the lock. I have not replaced seal in windows piston as it’s not leaking from piston. (of course, pressure ports were leaking). I learned that dismantling the window piston is quire a job and it includes some glueing too (was told by Woerle). 

Vacuum) 

I’m replacing old-style elements that are not rebuildable with new style. That includes modification or manufacturing of new brackets. See my other thread.

Bumpers)

I finally received new stainless-steel bumper set but it’s still in the box. I will provide report once the bumpers will be on the car.

Timing chain)

Engine started to sound terrible and there is a knocking from area around the pump. Long story short the chain is bad (190 000 km on original chain) and two upper rails are cut to aluminum. I think the photos will demonstrate the situation. Having the crank shaft at TDC gave about 10 BTDC od left bank and 15BTDC on right! I bought NOS aluminum-backed rails as I don’t believe in M123 replacement plastic trash. I bought chain from Renolds (06 B2* RENOLD - A. & S.) as suggested in other thread here. I will use zip-tie procedure to wind it in. Removing slide rail pins was just a fun. There is no space for reverse hammer so I used long M6 screw and socket to pull it out.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Update:

New slide rails are in. Pins are sealed with PETEC Gewinde Dichtung.

I'm trying to 3D print adapter for crack-case bolt now (I have the old style splined version with crown). Prototype from PLA fits. I will print it from something more durable. I hope that it will me strong enough to turn the engine without spark plugs. I have Haas CNC as a backup to make it of steel.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

New chain is in. Plastic adapter was good enough. New tensioner will be installed tomorrow. I will check the timing too.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Engine is running again. The rattling noise is gone. Unfortunately I just discovered two new issues!

1) The radiator started leaking. I replaced the incorrect yellow antifreeze with correct MB liquid. It seems that the new fluid started dissolving all the sediments that were covering holes in the radiator. So I have just onother radiator for rebuild. I have done radiator repairs on almost all my cars.

2) The hydraulic fan clutch started leaking in the front and it's spraying oil all over the engine bay. I have already ordered parts for the rebuild and will follow thread from this forum and MB workshop manual for rebuild. 

It's endless ... I still have about half of the komfort hydraulic system to replace port seals and the vacuum systems is horrible too.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

I'm ready to remove the hydraulic fan clutch / water pump. Is it necessary to remove it including the housing (unscrew it from the block). Or is it possible to remove just the pump/clutch assembly and leave the pump housing bolted on the engine block? Thanks for sugestions. I'm asking as the workshop manual asks for disconnection of komfort hydralick lines but the lines are interfering with the housing only.

I'm now also replacing the double roller bearing of air compressor tensioner as it's bad. I have the one belt design with tensioner.

Please see pictures of air compressor oil hose. It's stamped 1966! I'm replating the adapters and will replace the hose. I'm lucky as it's the old style screw-in design!

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

The answer is: No, it's not possible to remove just the pump as bottom screw is not reachable due to belt drive. It's necessary to remove it including the pump body and separate it on the bench.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

The pump is out including the body. I will rebuild it in next couple of weeks.

It's was quite a pain to remove it as the KH pipes are blocking access to bolts. Nad I was missing deep socket to remove pointer screw.

It seems that front main seal will need replacing too. I hope I will be able to remove the crank pulley. I have a bad experience from my 6.3 where I was not able to get it off in car.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

The A0059972582 compressor oil hose is rebuild now. I used Semperit TU40 Oil/Luft hose as it has thicker walls for better fit into the screw-in fittings. Re-plating the fitting was 4 USD and hose was 8 USD a meter. Much better compared to 200 USD new part.

Update: I'm replacing Semperit TU40 hose with Codan 3133 hose. Codan 3133 is rated up 130C and 10bar. It has inner FPM coating.

I'm now working on water pump rebuild. I'm trying to remove impeller without broking it. 

Also I'm waiting for CNC shop to crate adapter for removal of the crazy A1860310172 crankshaft nut as I need to replace leaking front main seal. I was not able to locate original splined adapter from MB. I will use standard nut once the seal will be replaced.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

One of the most terrible jobs that needs to be repeated 4 times!

I'm also progressing with water pump rebuild. Disassembly in progress. I was not able to remove the impeller without damage. I'm considering a CNC brass impeller instead of paying 400 EUR for OEM. It's a bit too much ... :-)

I can post a whole picture series on full rebuild if someone is interested.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

Hello.

1) Water pump is done. I used my own CNC impeller made of bronze. I can offer it for better price compared to original cast iron.

2) Front main seal is replaced. I had to build some proprietary tools to do it. I'm ready to share it within EU.

3) The crankshaft pulley had a groove that was removed on CNC.

4) Oil/Water wax regulator for fan clutch was resealed as it was leaking. There is a special aluminium seal ring A 189 997 01 40 that is NLA so I had to laser cut it. I still have some available if someone is interested.

5) I bought used Bosh EFEP 385A injection pump test stand. I plan to open the black box of MFI repair and testing. Wish me luck.

600 #796 (1967 US version)

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)