Tires, Brakes and Suspension

Hi,
I have a new filter and fluid to replace on the hydro suspension. What will happen when I undo the pipes on the oil tank? I suspect I will have to chock the car and the bleed the system afterwards. I have read somewhere that you jack all four wheels of the ground and start the engine with the position switch in the normal position to bleed.Is this right?
Any one else changed the filter and what was the outcome?

Thanks in advance ,

Arl.

The filter should be changed as regularly as possible,I have come across cars with the filter...[xx(]'
If you are changing the spheres you need to get the car off the ground on Jack stands,Push the control disc on the reservoir back towards the stop,remove the lock ring and disconnect the control cable then put the adjusting switch in the "M" positon.That's full,the system will now deenergise.
To bleed it,reconnect the cable and replace the locking ring.,place the switch in the "N" positon while checking the oil level.
Start the engine and run for approximately 30 seconds at 2000 PM.60 seconds if you must refill the entire system.
Lower the car back down on to the ground.
If the switch is in either the "H" or "S" positons the warning light will be lit up.

Thanks Ron,

I have already changed the spheres, or as some one else calls them "Bombs"!!,thanks to your help earlier in the year.You suggested then to change the filter, but I didnt.I have a suction noise over some bumps in the left front so I suspect air in the system.I will put the car in the air and change the filter and bleed as you suggest and see what happens.If The filter is blocked would the circulation be affected and have a slower pump up, back to pressure, as it takes a while to raise the car in high?
Thanks for the advice and I will post my results.
Just to verify,the "M" position is for Assembly and Disassembly,is this correct?

Arl.

Hello out there! I tried to find guidance here how to change the suspension fluid, replace the filter and also the spheres. I have a W126 workshop book and it tells the system is de-energized by bleeding at the lines which go to the front and rear system (nipples).

Is it possible that somebody writes a simple explanation how and what to do in which order? I have a set of new spheres, 5 pcs. I am not sure where the filter is, I need to buy one and I would like to see how it looks like before placing the order.

Kari Pykäläinen

1971 6.3 #5581
1980 6.9 #7201
1981 380 SL
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/

Hi all, what's the part number for the filter? Is it still available?

quote:

---

Originally posted by zuffenone

Hi all, what's the part number for the filter? Is it still available?

---

I thought it is this one:

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0021845501

And I forgot to order it... [:(!]

Kari Pykäläinen

1971 6.3 #5581
1980 6.9 #7201
1981 380 SL
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/

MB part number for the filter is A002 184 55 01 and it is available at our dealer for € 13,40. The filter is inside the fluid reservoir according to spare part drawing. It should come out when the center part of the reservoir is lifted up.

Kari Pykäläinen

1971 6.3 #5581
1980 6.9 #7201
1981 380 SL
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/

I noticed I have a small leak at the main valve. Underside of the valve block there are two allen-head bolts. I can see there is a leak at one of the bolts heads. It leaks when the engine is running, just a drop every now and then.

Are the screws just holding the valve body together? Can I remove the leaking screw and hopefully change a seal/washer under it? Any risk of exploding something if I open the screw.

Kari Pykäläinen

1971 6.3 #5581
1980 6.9 #7201
1981 380 SL
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/

Leak is fixed. There was just a crush washer under the bolt and I replaced it. The leak is gone now.

It looks the bolts are just for closing the openings, perhaps they are for measuring the pressure etc test connections. I could not find anything in the Shop Manual though.

Kari Pykäläinen

1971 6.3 #5581
1980 6.9 #7201
1981 380 SL
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/

I have changed the spheres now as well as the pump inlet hoses 2 pcs on both sides of the fluid cooler. I did test run the motor and removed the air from the pump as advised in the technical manual by disconnecting the pressure hose connection at the main valve and directed the fluid straight into the reservoir.

After connecting the hose back I test ran again. I did not see any leaks nor the fluid level in the reservoir dropped. The car is still on jack stands so the axles are hanging fully down. I even tried to lift the rear wheel hub by a hydraulic jack but I did not get any function so the hub went pretty much all the way up.

I believe I have to drop the car on the wheels, perhaps it starts to work then. I need to change the dry sump hoses first before I can drop the car down.

Kari Pykäläinen

1971 6.3 #5581
1980 6.9 #7201
1981 380 SL
1987 560 SEC
1996 C180 A
1998 ML 320
1980 Stingray SV175 boat
http://suomi.mercedes-benz-clubs.com/