6.3

that makes sense to me, as these special bits are required to shoehorn a V8 into that chassis. -CTH

It's the same one. Just the hoses are different. There was never a correct picture of W109 6.3 in EPC. I think that 280 SEL 4.5 reuse our housing and aluminium plate with hose ports. The metal pipes are specific for 6.3 and pressure hose is special too.

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

This is how steering box on my car looks like. I only see it listed under 280SEL 4.5 USA.

Hello.

Here is picture of my box right before restoration. It's original, never changed. Is yours different?

I have many more pictures of box guts to share. Just let me know if somebody is interested.

Filip

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

To bleed after replacing all the hoses, I just filled and ran it while turning the wheel lock to lock while up on jack stands. Top up & seems fine.

Oh, and if pulling the column to do the coupling, its worth changing the bearing on the shaft up by the steering wheel. Mine seized and made a horrible noise while making the steering extremely heavy. Very odd.

regards

Michael D

Thank you all for providing helpful tips on getting the job done. I am, with all your help, at the point where I can fill the PS fluid, get it bled and test my work out.

This much is sure, if I have to this job again (aaaaagh God forbid) I will definitely pull the spindle out in the beginning, much easier to pull or reinstall the steering box, plus no chance of messing up the steering spindle.

Other than the steering box, one more thing that I have noticed odd with my car is that the steering spindle extension requirement does not match the shop manual. In the shop manual the upper inspection hole closer to the steering wheel is for cars with power steering, where as the lower one for mechanical ones. But on my setup if I use the PS length the spindle is not long enough to reach the coupler, so I have to use the mechanical setting (In the manual they are represented by 15a and 15b respectively). Has anyone come across this situation before? I am thinking this could potentially be because of the odd ball steering box fitted on my 6.3.

Thank you for the the helpful advice. As a matter of fact I was thinking on these lines, but was not sure if the pump would let the oil flow through it without turning it. This makes my life very easy.

A hint for bleeding the steering fluid. Leave filter out, fill resorvoir, have steering in the straight-ahead position, DO NOT Start Engine, gravity bleed system using bleeder on steering gear box. This will take awhile but you will not be introducing air or making it worse by turning the steering back and forth --that just induces air. Eventually you will see air bubbles -after it is pure fluid, lock down the bleeder -start engine with full resorvoir -do not turn steering wheel (!), let idle a minute or so; shut engine off -bleed again to verify the flow is good. tighten bleeder -install filter and you are good to go. No muss, no fuss.

Mine was short too. Previous owner had no clue how to do it right. I'm sure that mallet was used. No worries. I used plastic reverse-hammer to extend it back to length specified in documentation. Plastic sleeve looked intact. Unfortunately after about 1000 kilometers and I can hear and feel a little click during heavy steering. I'm planning to use column from my spare 6.3 that look virginal. It's absolutely OK to adjust it back with plastic hammer. It's the way how it should be done! See MB docs bellow. The issue is the age of the plastic sleeve not the adjusting process itself. Stay calm and hope you sleeve will make it.

My suggestion is to give a try and pray. You should be fine. Here is the MB document about it.

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

well done. Mine busted after the mechanic smacked it with a club mallet and clicks.

regards
Michael

I pulled the spindle out,very very straight forward - whew. The spindle is made such that for testing it can be collapsed by applying atleast 100 kg of force. And then can be stretched back by hitting a rubber mallet to an old coupling tightened to the coupling. What I have noticed is, the thing that restricts the coupling from collapsing is a plastic sleeve that fits in between the two moving tubes. As long as it is stuck there the coupling is in good shape.

I agree, that I should not try fixing the collapsed end of the steering spindle, but it is a NLA item so there is no option, unless any of you know where to get a new one.

If I can stretch the end and fix it back into the coupling, then I think the collapsing feature should still be intact but with a missing part that collapses in case of an accident.

...its a critical safety item and i expect that rebuilding a collapsible steering column is a negative.

regards
M

Removing the spindle is not a big deal. Bit of messing about with the indicator (2 screws) round of bolts on the steering column, perhaps a few on the floor.
Lemme know how you go on the 'rebuild' as I thinks its an item for the scrap heap.
regards
M

Thanks for the detailed advice. I checked the spindle today and the end that goes into the coupling has collaped as it is inside the tube flush with the open end. When I touch it with a screw driver it sort of wiggles, so I am thinking the previous owner applied the mallet solution.

I will take the spindle out, does not look to be a big deal. Can I find a new spindle or can they be re-built? I would rather avoid the "standard" solution.

Let's be very calm here. Is the coupling loose so it can slide up and down AND the box properly mounted?
Please relax everything, use a big screwdriver on the coupling so it is free, relax the box and test for the best position, as it may easily drop a few cm and may need to lift up and back.
It's unlikely that the shaft has collapsed, but the impact required to do so is not great.

If so, the solution is to replace the shaft as the nylon collapsible element will snap.
Removing the shaft, putting it in a vice, and beating it back to length with a large mallet and chisel will give you a shaft of correct length, but with with internal damage and a 'click' and slack in the steering wheel, forever ,that feels like... a bad coupling!

Regards
Michael

Need urgent advise.

I was able to put the steering box with the coupling back, but to my bewilderment the coupling, after I installed the missing bushing, has somehow gotten short. Now it is not able to hold both steering shaft and the steering box shaft at the same time. I did not even open the steering wheel just to avoid collapsing the column. Can the steering column retract if there is a slight bump while pulling the steering box up.

If the steering column intact has retracted/collapsed, what will be the indication and how can u fix it?

Some guidance will be greatly appreciated.

I was running it without anything attached to it. No problem.

300SEL 6.3 #1285 (1969 EURO version)

300SEL 6.3 #5346 (1971 US version project)

I need some advise.

After the trouble I had to go through to get the damaged allen head bolt out, I have been able to find a 12 POINT Flange Bolt 12.9, similar in size as the torx bolt MB now supplies for the coupling. The heads are the same size. Would it be a good decision to use the 12 point flange bolt instead of the torx bolt?

Link to the 12 point Flange bolt - https://www.belmetric.com/8mm-12point-c-2_1989_1991/btp8x35blk-12-point-flange-bolt-129-p-14244.html?zenid=bpqatajvhs3qhs74ub86qu2tq0

One more thing, is it safe to run the engine with pump hooked up to the steering box without the pitman arm being attached? The reason I ask this is, because it will help me turn the steering side to side to evacuate any air from the system without putting any load on the steering mechanism.

Thanks for letting me know, I will check spam to see his email.