6.3

Hello Everyone,
I am a new member on this forum, never owned 6.3 before.
I was looking to buy a car for my father as a B-day present. When I came across one 6.3 locally I had an opportunity to inspect and drive it. I was very impressed how properly w109 was designed /built.
Two months later, I bought 1971 Mercedes Benz 300SEL 6.3 in Massachusetts.
My car's vin# 109.018-12-004774. According to its title, Mr. Thomas J Sullivan from Massachusetts bought it in 1994. The car was last time inspected/registered in 1995. Since then it was in storage. Also it was another sticker on driver's door back from 1985 stating that oil change was done somewhere in New York State. This is all I know about the car.
It runs and drives, has some rust here and there, interior is in decent condition.
Noticed problems:
1. Rusted break lines. I am planning to replace all lines, calipers, pads and rotors.
2. Cooling system leaks. I am planning to rebuild water pump and hoses.
3. Oil leak under pressure from power steering pump reservoir. What could it be?
4. Air suspension seems ok but for some reason holds better in warm weather.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Eugene

Congratulations and welcome to the world of pain....lol [:D]just kidding. The oil leak you notice is the seal between the compressor and powersteering pump. It allows engine oil to enter the power steering often filling the reservoir right up with engine oil which then sprays out the front or all over the suspension on that side. It's not a hard job to repair it but difficult because you have to remove the pump and compressor to replace it. Small hands are an advantage. The seal can be bought at any bearing place . Another thing that should be done at the same time is replace the oil pressure line to the compressor,the fuel filter,the flexible fuel line and drive belts.

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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You can get thos elines from Neil Dubey at Star Motors. It looks like your suspension needs some work too, how long does it take to drop to the level in the pictures? It should stay up for many days if not moved.

David Rocha
005512

How comes it that those Pics remind me in 5327 when he entered my world!!
He ran also and his brakes worked well, no rust at all.....something here, something there...but overall good running condition!
Today after 4 tough years he slowly starts reconquering the asphalt again......looking pretty nice alike he was when he first left Stuttgart on a foggy pre-winter day in Nov 1970....
It was comparably warm on the 11th then with max. temp of 16.6 and min. 10.6 degree Celcius, no sun little rainfall...[8D][8D]

300 SEL 6.3 3478+5327
Oliver

Thank you all for your replies.

In cold weather it stays up for two three days and about a week when it's warm.
I will know for sure after I clean gas tank and fuel system.

Hi Eugene

Welcome and congrats on #4774.

I saw your thread after 'Kurt's'
, but check out my reply (post#5) in the thread:
http://www.m-100.cc/forum/topic.asp?whichpage=1&TOPIC_ID=6195#48402
This may help you too.

Good Luck

Alex

N L A County

Good Evening,

Finally, NY got good weather and I was able to work on my car.
I have to replace last two lines to complete braking system.








Unfortunately, new rear rotors I bought from www.rockauto.com did not match. I cleaned old ones and put them back.

Nice start![8D]

Juan

quote:

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Originally posted by EugeneGroysman

Unfortunately, new rear rotors I bought from www.rockauto.com did not match.

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Early cars had vented rear rotors as shown. Later cars had solid rotors with narrower calipers, which I expect is what you were sent.

Mike,

I wondered the same thing myself, but this is #4774 and the rear rotor/disc change started with #3549, so the stock solid disc should fit unless someone has swapped the rear axle at some stage.

Nice job on the front, Eugene. If the rears are within spec, you should have no trouble. The fronts do most of the work.
Art

Good Evening to All.

I am planning to measure rear rotors and try to exchange them.

I took some pics underneath the car.

Once breaking system is done, I am planning to clean fueling system: to clean fuel tank, replace filters and etc. Any suggestions?









Can someone help me to choose a anti-corrosion product for undercarriage. rustbullet.com, miracle paint from mercedessource.com?
Any advice is appreciated.

Apart from that box section,it looks good . A bit of surface rust is nothing to worry about. i would hit it with a wire buff in a 4" grinder to remove the surface rust and the loose PVC coating . A dose of some sort of phosphoric acid etch treatment followed by a quality etch primer ,a good paint in the body colour followed by either Wurths Body Shutz or Dinitrol should see it fixed for another 40 years.
Now that box section,

It will be badly rusted up inside there , and i would get it fixed as soon as possible because it's a major load bearing section.

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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When you do your fuel system, the protective housing for the fuel pump is missing. You may have trouble finding a replacement specific to the 6.3, but they are all basically the same on W108/9 cars and you have the short pump as best I can see, so see if you can get one off a car at the wreckers or from someone here who has one to sell.
Art

Ron

Thanks for reply,
I am planning to clean the rust spots to see how deep it goes.

Art

Thanks for reply.
It's not missing, I removed fuel pump cover for cleaning.

Hello All,
I ordered Rust Bullet coating and in the process of preparing the floor.



Any advice how to handle this spot?



How to apply the coating to inside frame panels?



Should I remove all original insulation down to metal before applying new coating?

That section of inner door sill (rocker) needs to be cut back to good metal and replaced if you are planning to keep the car. That means that you will have to strip back anything flammable in the vicinity which includes the rubber sill mat, the door front edge windlace and any bituminous sound deadener such as on the adjacent kick panel. Does the quarter (vent) window leak?

I don't see any reason to strip the covering off the tunnel, the foot panels or under and behind the rear seat. I don't know the product you plan to use, but, in general, if applying new bituminous sheets to the floor, I would advise removal of all the existing bituminous material. In the pictures, it doesn't look like you have a rust problem in the vicinity of the cross member under the front seats, so it does not need to come out and can be left as is. The rockers don't have anything but paint usually, with the carpet glued to the painted surface.

If you are asking about coating the inside of the rocker cavities, I would advise the use of Wurth cavity wax which is designed to creep into seams. The factory was using it on cars in the 1980's and 90's, I don't know about currently. To apply it, or a similar product, you need holes in the inner rocker panel which you plug with factory plugs after spraying the product via the holes.

That is all I can think of at the moment.
Art

Art,
Thank you for reply.
I would like to test vent window for leak but not sure what it is. What is a vent window?

It's the triangular shaped window that swivels at the front of the main window in the front door. We call them quarter windows in the antipodes. Tom Hanson calls them vent windows, so I presumed that was the American term. I was trying to work out in my mind why your car would have such severe rust in the inner sill panel and very little elsewhere. The woodwork at the left end of the dash looks in good condition which it would not be if the front window seal was leaking at the bottom corner(a common problem) and the location of the rust is further back than I would expect from a leak there or from the heater air chamber, so the most likely source of water inside the car to cause that much rust is the quarter window. You can buy new seals from Tom Hanson and I have covered the process of replacing the seals recently in the thread on my green 300SE Finnie which I think is called "Art's other 300SEL" in the General Discussion Forum. The W109 window is very similar but with a different rotating unit and only one screw at the top, not two.
Art

P.S. Testing is easy. Close the window and the door and hose the thing from the outside. If water does not appear on the inside, maybe someone stored the car out in the weather at some time with the window partly open.

This is a common spot for rust . It's serious as it happens. I would strip the steel back under car at the front of the rockers . They will be rusty. the outer part of the rocker panel needs to be removed at the front and the lower part of the "A" pillar needs to be inspected for rust. The jack point will need replacing and it looks like someone has placed something in there ( cardboard?).
I replaced the Left Front "A" pillar im my 6.3 because it had rusted 8" up into the car. It took months ...
In this case you can either buy the new panels($$$$) or get them made ($$) or cut the peices required from a donor car .Any W108 without rust will have the parts you need.
On my W111 Coupe that area was full of old number plates. [:D][:D]

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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I keep staring at that thing inside the sill, trying to work out what it is. I thought you may have put something in there to highlight the rust hole in the picture. Regardless, it shouldn't be there as Ron said. I've seen newspaper, putty, fibreglass, bodgy sheet metal, but nothing quite like that. Looks like an old fashioned malted milk container. Despite what Ron said, some of the new panels are not that expensive and cheaper than having them folded. Can you take a few pictures of the outer sill (rocker) at the front on that left side including the jack hole area and the front end of it and post them.
Art

The R/H inner sill/rocker is still available from Mercedes but when i enquired 6 mths ago the L/H was NLA - so i ended up making one for somebody





The pressed section was saved from a car we'd scrapped & was let into the new sill

Mice made a home inside the car: headliner and backseat had the most damage. When I removed backseat I found a dead mouse. Due to violent content I desided not to post the pic:)









This is what I found after scraching the surface. Looks like a layer of epoxy and coating.



Inside, pieces of backseat cushion.










The other side of the car

The seam is missing off the front plate on the left. It is just visible on the right. That is an indication that the area has been previously messed with. Otherwise it doesn't look too bad in the pictures. Run a magnet over the area on both sides. It will give you an idea of how much good metal is there. That malted milk container should not be there and will be hiding something. I'll try to post some pictures later in the day when I have more time to show you what I am talking about. I would suggest that you strip all the extranious material off the front ends of those rockers till you have just bare metal. You will be prepping and rust coating them in your project anyway, so it is time well spent.
Art

I hope your "lift" is secure. These are heavy cars and you dont want it coming down on you. A squashed should be the only death incurred.




[:D][:D]

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Re-inforcement for the jackpoints ????



When I see those pictures of those jackpoints, then the need complete restauration, because the angle does not fit the originals and are to far outwards ......

It's unusual how that rust appears to be much worse on the left side. On LHD cars it's usually the right side that suffers most.

If you're replacing the inner and outer rockers, try to keep at least a little of the original parts around the B pillar. If you cut away everything, keeping the door openings aligned perfectly can be tricky.

Mike, I thought the same thing which is why I asked about the vent window - as if the car had been left out in the weather on a road camber tilted to the right with the vent window leaking. It doesn't look anything like as bad rear of about the middle of the driver's door.

I said this morning I would expand on what I said when I had more time. The seam I am referring to is the seam between the two plates that make up the front end plate of the rocker (sill for the antipodians and poms). It is completely missing on that left side.
Here are the 2 plates.





I'm holding them together in the next 3 pictures. On the car they are welded together and to the open front ends of the inner and outer sills.













So when they are on the car they look like this.









Here is the right side of another car with road grime, but again you can see that seam like you can on the right side of Eugene's car. You can also see the notch in the bottom edge of the mudflap (rear wheel housing)plate both on my car and on the flap on the left on Eugene's car which fits around the seam when it is there.





You can see the jack hole in a couple of my views and in this view to illustrate what Paul is referring to.





So there are clearly some problems in the front of that left sill which have been partly repaired in the past by replacing the front plates and putting in a malted milk container. I'm not sure how far you want to take this, but if you want to fix it properly and keep the car, you need help from a sensible panel beater who is competent in drilling and replacing spot welds. I would recomment that you have him remove the outer sill panel at the front on the left so you can see inside, like this.









That gives you access to the jacking point, the bottom of the A pillar, the malted milk container and the rusted away piece of inner sill and any other gremlins. Then you can put it all back together again, knowing that it is all done properly. To do it properly, you really need to take the left front fender off, or at least release it away from the front of the sill. The repair ends up looking something like this.





You don't have to go this far[;)]





You can buy those two end plates from Tom Hanson as well as an outer sill if necessary. Don't buy the W109 outer sill, it is about $600 plus, buy a W108 sill for less than half the price, you only need the front part. The rusted inner sill can be folded from sheet metal as Paul from the UK showed. It really depends what you want to do with the car as to how far you go.

I hope this is helpful, and if you want advice on how to remove the front fender without having to repaint it, ask. Obviously, that sill garnish mould will need to come off as well. Be careful doing that, they are NLA new.[:I]
Art

Under any Finny ,W108 or W109 that is the first place I look. If the seam is still there ,all will be OK. No seam means rust . Most of the problems were caused by the stones being thrown up and hitting the panel and chipping the pvc coating . Water then gets in and holes are rusted into the end panel. Because the insides of the sills were not painted very well from new, the water eats the front of the sill section . The reason not too much rust occurs further back is because the water runs out the jack point . The Jack points are generally rusted out . I haven't lifted a Merc on the jack points for years...especially other peoples cars in case the jack point folds up because of hidden rust.[:D][:D]
The other end will be rusted too so check inside the rear wheel house by poking the PVC coating. It's not a lost cause though because it's all repairable .
I generally make my own panels for the repairs .

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Thanks to All for replies.

I am keeping the car and would like to fix rockers and everything else on both sides.
What points can I use to secure the car before I start working on them?

Another reason they rust at the front is because M-B ran the heater drain hose into the cavity behind the wheelhouse rear cover plate, so when the drain holes between the front fender and the sill/rocker block, the cavity fills with water. It also fills with leaves and mouse residue as you showed. The drain hose is seen in the 5th picture of the ones I last posted and its bracket in a couple of the later ones. I think I can see it behind the vacuum reservoir in one of your pictures as well. So, make sure when you put it back together that the two drain spaces between the fender and rocker are recreated and clear.
Art

Sorry, missed your question. Here at the front.





At the rear, you can use the front ends of the trailing arms with timber between the jack stand and the car, the rear of the rockers at the jacking points if they are sound or the area between the two if you brace it with timber.
Art

Got it.
I like the pic, so nice and clean.

You probarbly know this already but ensure the rubber bushing (item 138 in the picture) is OK before lifting to high. If these let go the engine will drop down some and break things.

Thanks to All for replies.

I removed front fenders and cleaned all areas with pressure washer. I tried to wash rockers from inside by sticking washer hose inside holes. A lot of little stones and dirt came out.






No rust on fenders. Guards were original and properly installed.



















A list of metal was welded over the rocker.










Jack hole is fully fabricated, someone welded two pipes together. I would like to replace it with original part.







I looked inside driver's rocker through the rust hole with flashligh, it looks good practically no rust.
There are holes in front of rear wheels.
I need a knowledgeable welder in NY tristate aria.

Thats not too bad as it happens. A bit depressing at first sometimes but at least the majority of the rockers are good. The front panels are not the correct ones and although someone has done a reasonable job of patching there,you should consider removing the patches because both front jack points will need replacing. The classic Center has them . When you are looking for a welder ensure that you look for someone familiar with spot and plug welding and get them to replicate the factory look for the welds.
Also,dont replace the whole length unless your welder ( when you find them ) has a chassis bench to keep the car straight when the rocker is removed. These are very flexible cars compared with later mercs and it's not hard to change the cars shape slightly ,but enough to alter door gaps etc.

quote:

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Art,
What are the part# for those plates? I need them for both side.
Is jack point one part or more then one together?
Thanks, Eugene.

quote:

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Originally posted by Art Love

Mike, I thought the same thing which is why I asked about the vent window - as if the car had been left out in the weather on a road camber tilted to the right with the vent window leaking. It doesn't look anything like as bad rear of about the middle of the driver's door.

I said this morning I would expand on what I said when I had more time. The seam I am referring to is the seam between the two plates that make up the front end plate of the rocker (sill for the antipodians and poms). It is completely missing on that left side.
Here are the 2 plates.





I'm holding them together in the next 3 pictures. On the car they are welded together and to the open front ends of the inner and outer sills.













So when they are on the car they look like this.









Here is the right side of another car with road grime, but again you can see that seam like you can on the right side of Eugene's car. You can also see the notch in the bottom edge of the mudflap (rear wheel housing)plate both on my car and on the flap on the left on Eugene's car which fits around the seam when it is there.





You can see the jack hole in a couple of my views and in this view to illustrate what Paul is referring to.





So there are clearly some problems in the front of that left sill which have been partly repaired in the past by replacing the front plates and putting in a malted milk container. I'm not sure how far you want to take this, but if you want to fix it properly and keep the car, you need help from a sensible panel beater who is competent in drilling and replacing spot welds. I would recomment that you have him remove the outer sill panel at the front on the left so you can see inside, like this.









That gives you access to the jacking point, the bottom of the A pillar, the malted milk container and the rusted away piece of inner sill and any other gremlins. Then you can put it all back together again, knowing that it is all done properly. To do it properly, you really need to take the left front fender off, or at least release it away from the front of the sill. The repair ends up looking something like this.





You don't have to go this far[;)]





You can buy those two end plates from Tom Hanson as well as an outer sill if necessary. Don't buy the W109 outer sill, it is about $600 plus, buy a W108 sill for less than half the price, you only need the front part. The rusted inner sill can be folded from sheet metal as Paul from the UK showed. It really depends what you want to do with the car as to how far you go.

I hope this is helpful, and if you want advice on how to remove the front fender without having to repaint it, ask. Obviously, that sill garnish mould will need to come off as well. Be careful doing that, they are NLA new.[:I]
Art

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Eugene,
The left front inner plate is 110 611 03 40.
The right front inner plate is 110 611 04 40.
The front jacking plates are 111 610 80 52.
The rear jacking plates are 111 610 81 52.
The left front outer plate is 108 637 01 36.
The right front outer plate is 108 637 02 36.

As I said earlier, to replace the outer sill(rocker) panel, order one for a W108. Tom Hanson at the Classic Center Irvine CA can supply both the W108 and the longer W109 outer panel, but the price of the longer W109 panel is not justified if you just need to replace part of the panel. Even if you need to replace the full length, it is a lot cheaper to use the W108 panel and weld in a good section of your existing panel to lengthen it because , if my memory is correct, the W108 panel is $200 plus and the W109 panel is $600 plus. I don't have the W108 outer sill panel number. If you are a financial member of this Group or the MB Club of North America, if you buy the parts through Tom, you get a club discount which will pretty much cover the shipping. By chance, the guys at Justin's had #4426 out in the beautiful early winter sun today to strip it for primer and I took a lot of photos, a number with you in mind. Here are the ones of the repaired sills of this car. You will see that Peter Verberg who has done the panel work for Justin has inserted a 4 inch section of the original outer sill into the W108 panels that Justin got from Tom.





































































I hope these detailed shots are helpful in your project.
Art

Eugene,
If you look a bit down on page 4 of the thread on #4426, there are some photos taken at Perter Verberg's shed showing the sills partly assembled. I won't post them again here.
Art

Art,
Thanks for pics.
I sent a request for parts to Tom.
While waiting for parts, I am cleaning inside and the bottom of the car.
Pics will follow.
Eugene

quote:

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Originally posted by pjtigger

The R/H inner sill/rocker is still available from Mercedes but when i enquired 6 mths ago the L/H was NLA - so i ended up making one for somebody





The pressed section was saved from a car we'd scrapped & was let into the new sill

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As you mentioned before, left inner rocker is NLA. Can you make one for me?

Eugene,
Without in any way interfering with any arrangement you may wish to make with Paul in the UK, I would suggest that you should not have to replace the whole of that left inner sill. Based on the photos you supplied on the previous page, the inner sill (and possibly the outer sill) from the cross member under the front seats back is sound and does not need to be replaced. Replacing the inner sills is a major undertaking and has significant risks of body distortion unless you have the sort of jig setup that Paul has to hold the remaining body absolutely straight and square.

I would suggest that you initially just remove the left front section of the outer sill back to beyond the obvious rust in the inner sill, short of the B pillar and have a good look at what it reveals. Even then, with that amount of rust in the inner sill, you will need to carefully support the left side of the car, perhaps by bracing the driver's door entry, to stop distortion of the frame. You need an experienced panel beater to help you with this.

The other option that occurs to me now is to leave the outer sill intact initially and get the severely rusted inner sill cut away to good metal and the missing section folded and replaced, and then remove the front part of the outer sill. At least that way, you have the outer sill supporting the feft front door frame while the inner sill is done, and then an intact inner sill doing the same job while the outer sill and jacking point are replaced.

I'd be interested to hear what Paul has to say about your problem. He is the expert. If you like, I can also show Peter Verberg who has done both my 6.3's as well as Justin's your pictures and see what he suggests.

On the bright side, things are not as bad as this[:D][:D][:D]




Art

Eugene

I'd agree with Art in that repairing what youve got rather that replacing the entire sill/rocker is a prefered solution , i've replaced the inner's on two 6.3's now (we get a lot of rust in the UK [:D]) & they are a right pain to do. The big problem is that when Mercedes built the cars they worked from the centre out . The inner sills were attached to the floor pan & then door posts/outer sills were attached as one unit to the floor so when you try to fit the sills the posts (front , middle & rear) which extend to the bottom of the sill are in the way. Also the rear half of the floor (fron the central crossmember)and the rear crossmember go under the sill so you cannot push the sill up vertically.

The big problem with making a complete sill the the pressing in the centre (where the beam unber the front seats attaches). I was fortunate in that we scrapped a car about 6mths ago & saved these pressings , these were then let into the new panel.

If you can just replace the last foot at each end then the repair panel would be much simpler (its basicaly just a "U" with flanges) the hardest part is reproducing the two bends which are a very soft bend (something like a 1/2 inch radius) rather than a sharp bend that a folder would produce.

Also going back to one of Arts previous posts buy the 108 outer sill & extend it rather than buying the 109 part , we made the mistake of buying the 109 parts at vast expense - all Mercedes do is take two 108 sills & weld then together (the part has one weld in it & not a band & two welds) The 109 outers we got were 5mm differnt in length between the left & right so i still ended up cutting one & rewelding it [:(!]

Paul

Thanks to All for replies,
Your pics and advises are great help!
I am ordering the following parts from Tom:
110-611-03-40 left rocker panel forward end cap $28.50
110-611-04-40 right rocker panel forward end cap $29.50
110-610-00-52 left forward jack supports $102.00
I don't know if those prices are before or after 15% discount.

Sometimes ago, I read on the Forum about bringing up car without starting an engine. Someone used a tire compressor.
How can I do that? Any cleaning(reservoir) prior to that?
Eugene

Prices quoted by Tom are usually retail, pre-discount. You will need the 2 outer plates as well, 108 637 01 36 and 108 637 02 36 if they are available and not a stupid price, which they weren't when I last ordered them. If you get someone to make them, they will cost just as much in labor if not more.

To raise the air suspension without the motor running, you need a compressor which can deliver about 120psi or more and a tyre inflation fitting for the compressor hose. You attach it to the Schrader valve on the side of the air reservoir behind the left headlight in front of the left front wheel. It is easy to get to with the fender off. The valve is to the rear about a quarter the way up the reservoir from the bottom. Same as blowing up a tyre.





Once the reservoir is full of compressed air, you can drain any water and sludge from it by pushing the drain valve on the bottom sideways - it tilts.









The water and sludge will blow out under pressure, so don't stand too close or wear your best shoes[:D]. There may be very little or there may be a lot, depending on when it was last drained.




Art

I ordered parts from Tom and while waiting desided to remove radiator, water pump and compressor for rebuild.



Red liquid was comming out from smaller hoses at the buttom.
What could it be?






I am having hard time to loosen this nut and the other one on the top. Can I heat them up?

Eugene,
The red fluid is your automatic transmission fluid. Hitch the hoses up to something to stop the fluid running out - you want to keep as much fluid as possible in the transmission. The automatic transmission fluid cooler is in the bottom tank of the radiator.

The lines you are having trouble with are the engine oil cooler lines. The bottom one will dump all your engine oil onto your driveway when you loosen it. Have a trough or drum ready to catch it when you undo the line. I would suggest that you spray liberal amounts of antisieze over the fittings and let them sit for 24 hours. Then get a good quality long spanner of the correct metric size and try again. If you still have no success, get a length of steel pipe about a yard long that will fit over the spanner to use for more leverage. At a pinch, if you can't find such a length of pipe, you can try striking the other end of the spanner with a brass or plastic hammer to crack the nut. Others may have further suggestions. If you are going to do this work, good tools are essential. If you take the radiator out, you will need to add a new set of radiator support rubbers to your order with Tom.

Unless you are sure there is a problem with the water pump, my advice is that you leave it alone. You may open up a real can of worms removing it.
Art

When removing these engine oil lines, if its taking that much force, you should also counterhold the fitting on the cooler with a second spanner, otherwise you could (will) tear the fitting off the cooler.

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116.036
116.036
116.024
107.044
202.018

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