Originality Police

I'm only copying my reply from last night. I just thought that this would be more fitting in the "originality police" section since I'm a leather nazi. ;) Subsequent replies will be copied as well.

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Originally posted by Aaron H

I'm glad this subject has come up again. This is a subject matter that I am extremely passionate and proactive about. I cannot express in words the amount of disdain I have for these interior suppliers as of late. The leather that all of them supply is absolutely incorrect. Aside from the differences of shades from one tannery to another, the grain, texture, and sheen could not be more wrong.

The grain is more correct for 1973 and later cars, (you W116 fellas are in luck here...sort of) but definitely incorrect for W100 and W109 cars. In the first picture below, you'll notice the grain is very slight and broad, but noticeable. Some of you may not be aware of this, but Mercedes would often use smoother grained hides on the parts of the seat covering that we sat on, saw with our eyes, and touched. This was more evident on later 600's and W111/W112 coupes and cabriolets, as they had more leather covered pieces on the inside. Most of the smooth grained pieces, with the exception of the seats, was covered in a hide that was shaven thin so when it was stretched the grain became very smooth. Mercedes referred to this as "Speltleder". It was skived (shaved thin) to allow for manipulation and/or to allow for clearances in tight spots. For instance, the leather covered dash pieces on a W111 coupe utilized Speltleder. Have you ever seen a W111 coupe with a grainy dash? If you have, then it's been recovered....incorrectly, no less.

Back to the subject of suppliers....The sheen is flat, or dull. When the sheen is taken out, the color lightens. None of the W109, W100, or W116 cars ever had dull leather. They had an "eggshell" sheen about them straight from the Roser tannery.

The texture is just as far off. This new leather feels like a 2000 grit sandpaper with a stiffness that resembles a 50 year old Roser Hide that's been in the sun it's whole life. It's just not pleasurable to touch and feel like the original was.

I understand that EPA regulations will not let tanneries surface dye hides any longer. So vat dying is our only option, at least to my knowledge. This may not be a bad thing, for it a scratch comes about, it'll hide more scuffs than surface dyed hides.

A few years ago, Mercedes Classic launched this campaign promoting how they had reproduced the correct leather for Gullwings and other models of the late 1950's through the early 1970's. The main target group was Gullwing owners, but the same embossing was used on Gullwing hides as was used on all models with leather interior up to 1972. I bought a lot of this leather, and it is fantastic. It's like going back to the 1960's and buying a new hide from Roser. Unfortunately, stock on a lot of the colors has run out, and they will not be replenishing. That seems to be a trend lately with Mercedes. I digress. There are a few colors still available. i.e. black, light gray, dark blue, dark red, light red, dark green, dark saddle, natural, eggshell, and reseda green. Other mainstream colors like Cognac and parchment have been depleted, and for some reason, dark olive has been exhausted. If any of you are interested in a particular part number for a particular color, send me a message and I'll happily get the number to you. Though, I cannot promise availability. Any dealer can order the leather. Otherwise order it through the classic center.

Below I shall demonstrate what is correct and what is not. Various colors shall be used, but the grain and sheen are my main focus here. Any time I restore an interior for myself or a customer, I always save everything. I've been saving original leather cuttings for 12 years now, and I am armed.

In this first picture, we have original leather from W109, W100, and W111 coupes and cabriolets. These original cutting were cut from areas that weren't exposed to the elements. Note how the grain, sheen, and color look on these original pieces.







In this second picture, we have a few of the colors that we can still order from Mercedes. Note how closely these match the above original samples in sheen, grain, and color depth. For those of you interested, the colors shown in this second picture are dark green (both at top), dark red, (Shane, you like?!) light gray, and parchment (no longer available).

On a side note, The eggshell color (not shown in any pictures here) that Mercedes currently supplies is quite a bit off on grain, but it has sheen, and was supplied by Mercedes as of less than a year ago. The grain on the eggshell color wasn't too noticeable when the whole interior was done, mostly because the sheen was correct. The car that this eggshell color was fitted with wasn't penalized by concourse judges because of the grain, but would have been if the sheen wasn't correct. Unfortunately, most judges have no idea what leather is correct and what isn't, much less correct grain, texture, or sheen.







In this last picture, we have the horrible, incorrect, and hideous samples of leather that most suppliers give us if we buy from them. I've acquired samples from nearly 15 different places worldwide. All of them seem to sell nothing but the incorrect leather. I've tried working with some of them to try to get something close, but they all more or less brush me off, as if they can't be bothered. Notice how the grain is the wrong pattern, the sheen is far beyond dull, and the texture, which can't be seen, only felt, is very saddening.









Myself and a close friend are currently working with Seton Leather GMBH in Germany to see if they will reproduce the correct leather. After all, they are the ones that made the "new old" leather a few years ago for Mercedes. I know they can do it, but what will it take? Wish me luck.

So now that those of you who took the time to read this are schooled, choose your interiors wisely. It's not something to take lightly, and costly to do again if you aren't happy with what you bought.

One last side note..the blue velour carpeting that some of us have in our cars came in a light and a dark blue. Take note of which you have. Most suppliers of new velour carpeting only offer the dark blue.

As always, I'd love to hear other's experiences, advice, suggestions, or any input, for that matter. Thoughts? AARON

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quote:

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Originally posted by Jack English

Aaron and all: At the most recent International 190SL Group convention in October, a rather new product was displayed. The company name is Aeristo, Grand Prairie, Texas, and the product line named, "Touranil." This purports to be all vegetable tanned. This might deserve a look as it has been used on recent, 2013, Pebble Beach Best of Show winner. The vendor provides the dyed hides but does not provide any kits or precut patterns. Leather only.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768

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Originally posted by 67300SE5SPD

I spoke to John of German Auto Tops about the Aeristo leather mentioned in the previous post and he agreed that it is very good quality but the cost is the down side of it. He estimated that at $1500.00 per hide the material cost for doing a 6.3 could climb as high as $7500.00 [V] and that's just the leather material cost. I looked at the Parchment 2030 sample photo that John sent me and it is pretty nice indeed. As I said at the top of this discussion, I am very close to pulling the trigger. I am currently distracted financially with the mechanical issues that need sorting on this unit. But I am anxious ....

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quote:

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Originally posted by Aaron H

Jack, thank you for this bit of information. While a $7,000-$8,000 price tag to buy enough of this leather to do a job is scary to most, myself included, I also realize that is a relatively small price to pay to get something that is correct for the car, as well as for something that no one else has. Looking forward to getting some samples. :)

I can offer this advice to those of you that don't want to spend, or can't spend, that high of a price for your interiors. World Upholstery has some leather that has a very fine grain, (too fine in my opinion) but would look much better than what everyone else supplies. In addition, the sheen is very dull. Consequently, some of the darker colors will be too light. Nonetheless, it's an option. So if you decide to pull the trigger, just know what to expect.

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Originally posted by benz_head

I assume the Classic Center is the same as the dealer?


benz_head
#1349

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quote:

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Originally posted by Aaron H

In Germany, I am not sure. In the U.S., the Classic Center is nothing more than a dealership that caters only to the older models. Since they are an approved Mercedes dealership, the answer to your question more yes than no. That is why we can order anything through a local dealership that we can also order through the classic center. The problem is that most parts department employees in local dealerships have no idea how to look up a part for an older model; most don't even know that the EPC goes back to 1960. Consequently, if you use your local dealer, you'll more than likely need to bring a list of part numbers with you to have them order. They know how to place orders.

I recently learned that a lot of dealerships will make customers wait 2-4 weeks on a part if it's in Germany. This is when the Classic center comes in handy. it'll usually take about a week, and no longer. I use both regularly.

Regarding the leather that is still available through Mercedes, local dealerships won't even know that part number exists, so if you want some leather you'll have to have the part number handy.

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Hey all. I've an update regarding leather for you fellas. In an earlier post, Jack English mentioned that Aeristo Leather in Grand Prairie, Texas was a source to consider. The owner, Christian, is a very nice fella. He sent me samples, and I must say that the samples pass my requirements and my discerning eye with flying colors. Attached are pictures of the product/business card, as well as a picture of the samples with a piece of original Roser leather up top for comparison.

These hides are surface dyed, and not vat dyed, and in the same manner that Roser used years ago, and with most of the original materials. German bull hides, etc.

Yes, it is expensive. As member "67300SE5SPD" stated earlier, it'll cost around $8,000 just to buy the hides. Then you have to send the leather someplace to have the seats covers and arm rests/head rests sewn up. You'll collectively spend $10,000-#13,000 for everything, less labor for the installation.

This service that Aeristo Leather provides is a lovely convenience, and conveniences come with a price. If you want to do it correctly, then we have to pay to play. I'll definitely be putting my order in as soon as I save up the money. It'll be worth every penny.

As always, I'd love to hear any and all thoughts/inputs! :) AARON

Hi Aaron,

one big point of concern is, if you have somebody, who can bring the correct perfotation (woven cable) in the leather for the pipes.

Yes, Paul. Good point. GAHH in California has the correct machinery to emboss the perforations on the perforated part of the leather. They'll also sew up the seat covers, arm rests, and headrests if you send them the leather hides. Their will be a surcharge for doing so, and rightfully so.

Something else I feel the need to mention is about the piping in the seat covers, arm rests, and head rests. In order to attain the correct diameter piping, you'll have to supply the correct diameter piping cord and you'll have to create your own "Spelt Leder", or leather that is skived almost paper thin. The piping cord itself is easy enough to find. In order to get paper thin leather, you'll have to cut a long strip of leather out of the hide about 3 inches wide. Next is where it can get tricky, but yields superb results. Go buy or borrow a router table with the router attached. Install a "drum" type sander into the chuck of the router. I use 80 grit drums, and you simply run the strip of leather over the turning drum sander and it'll shave it paper thin. Make sure your router is set on its lowest RPM setting. Otherwise the drum dander will fly apart. It's messy. Fluff flies everywhere....so don't do it in the house. ;) I did it in my garage with some green leather when I first started doing this. It snowed green leather for a half an hour. What a mess. I go outside now.

Aaron, what is their pricing for a hide?

Chris

Chris, it largely depends on whether or not it's a color that he has in stock and/or set up to make. If he has to match up a particular color, then the cost will be more. I think a safe estimation would be $1,200-$1,500 per hide. However, it's best if you speak with Christian himself to confirm pricing.

On a side note, I think I remember Christian telling me that he makes little to no profit doing this type of leather reproduction. He simply has a passion, and loves his work. So try not to be too upset about the pricing. As I mentioned earlier, these conveniences come with a price, but it's definitely worth it. :)

Thanks Aaron, that's about what I thought. Do you know if he is able to duplicate the color on Cognac? with the reddish freckles?

Chris

I sure he can, and it may be that you need to send him a good original sample to go by if he hasn't already matched up cognac. Again, all we an do is contact them and ask. :)

Chris, I spoke with Christian. He does have Cognac leather. I sent you an email with the details.

I'd also be interested in what his cognac leather looks like. I have front seat repairs (plus or minus door armrests) to get done in my 280SE W111 coupe and am currently hoping to get enough leather from the rear seats from a cognac 6.3 that I bought over 25 years ago as a parts car. Not yet sure how we will go and another hide may be worthwhile. Australian dollar value and import duties are an issue for me as well.

Art

Art, while having some original leather is desirable, it isn't often that we can unstitch it and re-sew that piece on to another without the leather falling apart. Unless the hide has been hermetically sealed its whole life, mother nature will wreak havoc on our precious original leather making it nearly impossible to work with for patch work.

Original cognac and new cognac will look very different. Not because the new is incorrect, but because our original leather usually darkens, and with cognac, the red spots will have long since disappeared. It's kind of like bright work. You can't re-chrome just one piece of trim. The rest will look awful...where does one stop?

Art, I sent you an email.

Aaron,
I received your e.mail and replied before I read this. We'll keep in touch.
Art

Ok, so I'm putting my 6.3 back to it's original colour interior of 3000 Dark Red. Someone had put a black interior inside of it back in the early 1980's. So it was a beautiful correct interior, but was incorrect colour. Sourcing dark red door caps, door arm rests, and center console tray has proven to be as difficult as finding green interior parts. I want every one's opinion/thoughts on what I have done with the door caps. I've covered them in the correct colour of leather. I know I know, it's not correct, but The leather I bought is the correct leather, and the sheen, grain, and texture mimic the original vinyl underneath perfectly. I covered the door caps in such a manner that they weren't altered to the point of being of no use if someone decided to remove the leather. All the modifications were done on the underside. I had to skive the edges of the leather paper thin to make this work, but after a trial fitment, all was successful.

The other picture is of one of the door panels that I ma almost done with. I just lack the puffy bolster at the bottom. I ran out of foam. My camera doesn't do this leather justice. It makes it dull and lifeless. It's not, and It looks so much better in person. Still, I value everyone's thoughts, negative or positive. Bear in mind that this is the only modification the car will have had done to it. All else will be as original.

for the door-armrests and other difficult stuff , I would try to paint the black ones with the correct colour leatherpaint 3000 ...

I have had some of the same conversations with an upholstery shop her in Central Coast of California. I'm trying to do much of this myself. I bought matching vinyl tex-like material which really looks like the cognac leather in the hides I have. It seems that the center tray was originally covered by some sort of injection molding process which we can't replicate. I am going to do the door caps in the vinyl because of sun exposure. I haven't yet decided on whether to use leather on the door cards. The leather is a lot thicker than the vinyl so a bit harder top work with. It has been recommended to me that the center tray should be cleaned as much as possible then sprayed with the proper upholstery dye. At the moment I'm still fighting the velour carpeting.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768

Paul, if I don't find the correct coloured other bits, I'll have no other choice than to dye the black pieces. :/ I just don't like doing that on pieces that get a lot of touching, etc. It's bound to scratch off at some point. I'm so mad at myself.....5-6 years ago I gave a long wheelbase W108 4.5 car to Drew Tibcken because he wanted the rear axle out of it. It had dark red interior. The body was rusty, and the engine needed a lot of work. It was a parts car. I should have kept that interior. Lately, everything I find is either blue or tan. :/

Jack, I think you may run into a problem trying to fit vinyl to the door caps. The vinyl we can buy today is as thick as leather, if not thicker. The problem here is that we can't skive, or shave down, vinyl. The problem complicates itself when it's a W109 car. The later ones have the anodized aluminum trim piece on the door cap, as well. It won't fit over it's lip on the door cap if the material isn't skived.

Regarding the door panels themselves, the original leather wasn't skived on the door panels, so you should be ok there. What I've fond is that the original door cards were saved at the very top for clearance issues between the door card and the door cap. Down at the bottom where the puffy bolster is may be a problem, too. Skived leather, as well as leather that one buys either from Mercedes or Aeristo, is easier to work with than vinyl, especially around these complex curves and bends.

Another area vinyl won't work on is the door pockets. The edges of the door pocket leather are so thin that you can almost see through the leather on the edges. The plastic chrome piping on the door pockets is sewn to the larger piece of leather with a narrower piece sewn into the seam to cover the top lip of the door pocket. So you'll have the thickness of two pieces of vinyl and the piping at that seam. If we tried that seam with vinyl, it would bulge out horribly.

Is there not a place in Europe that still sells the original style vinyl that is very thin? Surely someone in this world has this, or at least has the ability to make it.

Aaron,

Just to clarify some comments in your post above on 03/15/2015. The Classic Center is NOT an Authorized MB Dealership. Not at all. We don't sell new cars here. We are a restoration center and parts supplier, owned and operated by MBUSA. We do occasionally sell classic Mercedes-Benz automobiles, but only three or four per year.

Tom Hanson
Supervisor, Parts Ops
MB Classic Center USA
949 598-4842 direct
thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
ex - 1970 6.3 #4045

Aaron,

I've used VHT vinyl dye on faded red arm rest on my w108 about 10 years ago, and it has lasted incredibly well with no fading or visible wear.
Unfortunately the colour range does not include yours, but there must be another brand available to try.

regards
Michael D

http://www.smsautofabrics.com/
Anyone tried these guys for hard to get vinyl? I had read recently of a group in the UK who have resurrected a vinyl making machine, not for the faint hearted,these things are 30 meters long. [:D]

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12-14-2004, 11:49 PM #8
Tom Hanson
MBCA Member

What the heck, try to stuff a MB 6.9 liter V8 in it. What a machine that would be..
__________________
Tom Hanson
Orange County Section

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Does anyone know if Adsitco's product looks like the original leather? They claim it does:
Product Description

This seat upholstery is manufactured using the original equipment German Leather to the original pattern for the correct original look. If you have any questions about the color of your interior please supply us with your vin#. All seat covers are special order for your car so please order carefully.

Hi Richard. The short answer to your question is no. In essence, they're probably using the same leather all of the other companies buy. In their description, they say it looks like the original. They're not exactly fibbing, as I am sure they do look like the original, but only regarding the pattern, pleating, embossing, etc. It's the color, sheen, (or lack thereof in the case of modern leather), and grain that is not correct. Unless they're using leather from Aeristo, the product won't be what you're expecting.

If you choose to go this route and buy modern leather, the only way to make it work is to recover not only the seats, but all of the door panels and door pockets, as well, so it'll all match. The difference between the original leather and modern leather that other companies sell is night in day in my eyes. It's not even close.

Given the fact that they say "All seat coverings are special order", I'd be willing to bet that they're ordering the seat cover kits from places that everyone else orders from and putting a mark up on the price.

Has anyone had any luck grafting material from old upholstery to repair damaged areas?
Jim

jim

I wanted to retain my original seat covers and visited several Auto Upholstery shops who all replied, can't be repaired....you need new covers. Finally a company called Leather Medic came out to my garage and repaired the seat. I believe they may be a franchise. Did a great job for around $250, which included repair of tears (with material under as fill in), cracks, and refinishing. If you look around, you may find someone who will repair the seat to your satisfaction.

























'70 300 SEL #3366
'80 240D
'87 560SL
'91 560 SEC
'93 190E 2.6
'91 300 SE

I recently learned that GAHH is now offering what they call "oldtimer Leather". It's geared towards any car that used Roser leather from the 1950's through the 1970's. I've ordered a sample of every color they have at this point. As soon as I get them, I'll post them on here comparing them with original leather and Aeristo leather. One of the colors they offer is Cognac......this should be interesting....

Looking forward to your findings.

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116.036 - trusty rusty
116.036 - Rooikat
116.024 - the merc
116.028 - Penelope
116.032 - Esmeralda
126.037 - Scheckter
126.037
107.046

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Aaron, is this old timer leather shown on the GAHH website?

Chris

At the moment, none of the oldtimer leather appears to be shown on their website. The only reason I came to know about it is because I received and updated product/price list in the mail, and this "oldtimer" leather was advertised in this article of mail.

Aaron --any update on your leather process?

Yes, Aaron, did you ever receive your samples from GAHH? and if so, how did they compare to the real thing?

Chris

I have yet to see a decent Cognac replacement leather.

1972 Mercedes 600 #2137
2011 Porsche Cayenne Turbo
2014 Mercedes CLA250
2015 VW Golf R
2015 Mercedes S550 4Matic

Around 1979 I purchased a complete set of hides from Mercedes which I kept in storage until I resurrected my 109 project in 2005. The amazing fragrance of the interior cannot be replicated with today's new production leather. I continuously apply Lexol and a product called Black Magic which contains petroleum distillates. As you can see, so far, so good.




300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT

AG Silver, I'm horribly concerned about your use of a petroleum distillate based product on surface dyed leather from a Roser Tannery. In general, using anything with petroleum distillates on surfaced dyed leather, or any leather, is a horrible thing to do. Over time, the petroleum distillates will break down the binding fibers of the skin, and the leather will literally fall apart and/or turn into mush. One must remember that leather is skin; it's an organic substance.

What happens when an area of the human body is constantly exposed to a petroleum product? The first thing that happens is that the petroleum product is absorbed into the skin. After being exposed long enough, the area becomes inflamed. All the while, the inorganic petroleum product interrupts the life cycle of skin cells. The result of this is an overabundance of free radicals. Much more than our bodies can handle. At this point, the homeostasis of the human body is interrupted, and cancer prevails.

Now, I realize that a tanned cow hide is no longer a living organism, and that a Bovine hide or German Bull hide is of a different make up than human skin, but most mammals share distinctive features, both physically and dermatologically. However, introducing something like a petroleum product can and will expedite the aging process of a postmortem hide.

In essence, a postmortem hide can still be damaged, even after it has been tanned and preserved. Stick with the Lexol or Leartherique. You're leather will last much longer. :)

quote:

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Originally posted by Aaron H

AG Silver, I'm horribly concerned about your use of a petroleum distillate based product on surface dyed leather from a Roser Tannery. In general, using anything with petroleum distillates on surfaced dyed leather, or any leather, is a horrible thing to do. Over time, the petroleum distillates will break down the binding fibers of the skin, and the leather will literally fall apart and/or turn into mush. One must remember that leather is skin; it's an organic substance.

What happens when an area of the human body is constantly exposed to a petroleum product? The first thing that happens is that the petroleum product is absorbed into the skin. After being exposed long enough, the area becomes inflamed. All the while, the inorganic petroleum product interrupts the life cycle of skin cells. The result of this is an overabundance of free radicals. Much more than our bodies can handle. At this point, the homeostasis of the human body is interrupted, and cancer prevails.

Now, I realize that a tanned cow hide is no longer a living organism, and that a Bovine hide or German Bull hide is of a different make up than human skin, but most mammals share distinctive features, both physically and dermatologically. However, introducing something like a petroleum product can and will expedite the aging process of a postmortem hide.

In essence, a postmortem hide can still be damaged, even after it has been tanned and preserved. Stick with the Lexol or Leartherique. You're leather will last much longer. :)

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Clearly, your knowledge of leather care is far greater than mine and I really appreciate your concern and that you took the time to comment extensively.

I do, however, need to correct what I said about "petroleum distillates." After re-reading the product's label, it actually refers to "petroleum products." Additionally, I note that "Connolly Hide Food/Care" also contains petroleum products. I can only say that these 20+ year old hides to date show no signs of deterioration whatsoever.

300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT

I am a big fan of Leatherique products. Expensive, but worth every penny.

http://www.leatherique.com/

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Originally posted by Aaron H

At the moment, none of the oldtimer leather appears to be shown on their website. The only reason I came to know about it is because I received and updated product/price list in the mail, and this "oldtimer" leather was advertised in this article of mail.

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If you contact them (GAHH), they will send you a sample. I'm going with old-timer in mine and am quite happy with the sample they sent. It's MUCH thicker and has a nice grain to it. It's the closest to original as I have been able to find.

1966 230SL
1969 300SEL #1703
1985 300TD
1990 350SDL
2002 SL500
2008 GL320 CDI
2009 GL320 BT - SOLD

KiPf: I'm glad you got the Oldtimer samples.....I've been trying to get samples from them for months now. I eventually gave up and found two other places that sell the same product as GAHH. The Cognac has much to be desired, but all of the other colors are spot on, and the grain, sheen, and texture are also correct.

AGSILVER, thank you for the kind words. I only know what I know because I made a lot of mistakes in the past. ;) Mike also speaks words of wisdom. The Leatherique is fantastic for this particular type of leather. In a pinch, you could also use Mink oil, as that is the main ingredient in Leatherique.

I have enough samples to post some pictures of now, and I will. It's just such an ordeal to resize every single picture. I'll do it though. Too many of you have been patiently waiting.

Aaron, I have a sample of the black Old Timer. I can take a pic and post here or email to you for you to use with the others. It's MUCH thicker than other samples I have seen. David Latham will be installing new carpet and hides in the 6.3 in the upcoming weeks. I can ask him for some photos of the process if anyone thinks it would be helpful.

1966 230SL
1969 300SEL #1703
1985 300TD
1990 350SDL
2002 SL500
2008 GL320 CDI
2009 GL320 BT - SOLD

How does one go about getting part of a hide?

I see that GAHH 's minimum is half a hide of about 25 sq feet at xyz $/sq foot and it makes it about a US $400 purchase.
I only want 4/5 sq feet for a repair.

I am trying to find a GAHH Agent in Aust but that's a work in progress.

As an alternative: does any one have some left over from their job?
I seek Salerno pebble blue for my '78 6.9.

Tks

Randy, I believe you can buy direct from GAHH, and on-line, too. Unless someone has some left over from a job, most places won't sell less than half a hide anyway. This old timer leather will not be correct for your W116. That's not to say that old timer leather wouldn't look good in a W1167, as it would look spectacular. If you're ok with that, them all the better.

For W116 chassis, the best examples i've found for them are made by a company called HANS REINKE. They're based in Hamburg, DE, but have other facilities throughout Europe. They'll only sell to trim shops, though, so you'd have to go that route. For the blue you're looking for I'd recommend they're 9122 dunkelblau.

As a matter of fact, HANS REINKE is who is making the old timer leather.

KIPF, I have the samples, I just didn't get them from GAHH. You're welcome to post anything you wish, but when I finally post all of my findings, the black will be covered anyway. Thank you for the thoughtfulness. :)

Recently I have seen some outstanding interior restorations. One being a W109 6.3 and the other a 1961 300SL roadster. The only item lacking on both restorations was the original fragrance of the DB leather. It's good, but it just ain't the same.

300SEL 6.3
E55 AMG
CLK63 AMG Gone
Ferrari 400GTC4
ML400CDI BiTurbo
ML350 CDI BT
9146GT

Unfortunately, most shops that restore 300SL's and the like don't use the correct leather. They either don't know it exists, or they (both shop and car owner) refuse to spend the extra money to buy the correct leather. Every time I've been to a Concourse D`Elegance in which a Gullwing/Roadster or a 190Sl were being judged, neither would win anything due to them having the correct leather.

If any of you are going to go through the expense and effort to restore your interior, then buy the good stuff. It doesn't matter if the car will be judged or if it's just going to be a "driver" quality car. They all deserve the correct materials. The correct leather is generally $400-$500 more per hide than the less expensive incorrect leather. So for a 6.3, that would approximately be an extra $1,500-$1,800 in additional cost. The same goes for a W116. For the 600, I'd be comfortable saying to factor in an extra plus or minus $3,500 since is has more leather inside.

Something else I'd like to bring to light is carpeting. In the M-100 world, the 600, 6.3, and 6.9 cars only had two types of carpeting; wool or velour (unless other wise stated when ordered, of course) There were some unusual colors in the early years, such as rust red. However, for the most part most of the cars had standard colors that most of us are familiar with. The color I'd like to make mention of is blue.

There were 2-3 different shades of blue carpeting AND leather. In general, most would have had light of dark blue. My aggravation comes from the companies that supply carpet set for our cars. They only offer one shade of blue. The same goes for the leather. Though Aeristo and HANS REINKE do offer the correct two shades of leather. However, I've yet to see anyone offer the other shades of blue carpeting. If you car originally had light blue carpeting that was replaced with dark blue carpeting, then the car is no longer original.

As mainstream and as cost effective manufacturing carpeting is in this day and age, I can't understand why ALL of the original colors aren't offered. Granted, the early wool carpeting with black flecking throughout the color could prove difficult to reproduce, but it's not entirely impossible by any stretch of the imagination. For those of us that have the early wool carpeting in green this would be a lovely addition, as the green hasn't been available in nearly 30 years. By now most original wool carpeting is starting to shrink and show it's age. Maybe in the near future this won't be so much of a problem. Not holing my breath, though.

THANKS Aaron I'm on the case.!

Here's the new interior in the 6.3. It's "Old Timer" leather and wilton wool velour carpet from GAHH, all done per the data card. They both match OEM perfectly. David also rewebbed the seatbelts.





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1966 230SL
1969 300SEL #1703
1985 300TD
1990 350SDL
1992 500E
2002 SL500
2008 GL320 CDI
2009 GL320 BT - SOLD

Oh wow! and look at those beautiful chromed hinges.
No need to dress these up with a cheap plastic cover plate.