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Originality Police

M-100 Newby The basic FAQ's
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Hi, Rudi,
While there may not be additives for the gas that help, years ago one of members with several M-100s promoted the idea of adding ATF to the gas to help lubricate the MFI. I have been doing this for about 10 years. My local MB dealer charges several hundred dollars for a fuel injector "treatment." Told me ATF replaces that treatment. I Agree with Peter: visit Michael at Morris Motors (916) 776 - 2600.

Jack English
300SEL 6.3 #4768
Rudi,
I highly recommend that you take this car to Morris Motors, Michael Morris' shop. He is in Walnut Grove. Take it in for an evaluation and a once-over. You will be glad you made the drive.
Peter

benz_head
#1349
If you have cognac leather do Not rub cleaners or conditioners on it. The spots will come off.
Welcome and congrats.

jim
For engine oil 15w-40 non synthetic such as Chevron Delo is a good choice for temperate climate such as California. You can even go to 20W-50. Castrol GTX 20W-50 is my personal choice.

Daniel
1977 450 SEL 6.9
Vancouver, BC
Rudi --Welcome to the Forum and the M-100 Group. A 25,000 mile 1965 600 is unheard of -congratulations.

Your questions on interior can be answered under the Cleaning & Detailing topic. We all seem to have our own methods so I'd review all the suggestions and applications as the level of leather deterioration/preservation requires different rejuvenation products --some can harm, some are not needed. For leather that is not dry but soft & supple, I use Connolly Hide Care & cleaner (England); for leather that is a bit dry, I use Lincoln neatsfoot oil -a John Lincoln product from Sunnyvale, Calif --a caution here -this Lincoln product is an oil and recently there was a post regarding different composition of oils that can actually harm/deteriorate the leather over time --I plan to research this. For dry leather, I use saddle soap to begin the rejuvenation process --this should not be used on cognac for after a period of time, the red dye will disappear. These are not recommended products so please review all suggestions and draw your own conclusions.

As for the wood, if it is down to bare at edges, the wood will require removal for refinishing. If you apply oils, you will change the color of the bare/deteriorated surfaces --Personally, until it is time to remove the wood for refinishing, I'd use Johnson floor wax just so I had the comfort that I did something. But, I'd suggest you call Madera Concepts to get their recommended maintenance procedures -they are the professionals when it comes to wood restoration; Goleta, Calif.

Fuel --always the best/highest octane. I, as of yet, have not found an additive that satisfies me given that lead additives are outlawed. Others on the forum may help you there. Use caution as some additives can do more harm than good.

Again, Welcome and congratulations.

mpmorris
Hi there M-100 forum so I am the proud owner of a very original M-100 that is in great working order! Testament to Daimler engineering.. anyhow I have the following top questions:

What is the suggested engine oil for a strong 25,000 Mile M-100 motor? Housed in Norcal bay area? We plan to drive this car regularly so its going to get some work!

I have some dry areas on the wood work on the dash and the window sills whats the suggested oil or vanish for this? Is it a sand back and varnish or is there a rub on oil I can use?

What is been the best product to treat the rubbers on the car? Window and door seal etc?

What is the suggested fuel to use? Do you add an additive or just fill with premium ULP?

Is there a M-100 specialist in the Bay area Norcal / San Fransico area that members can recommend to visit?

Any assistance appreciated... love this car...





Rudi Tuisk
1965 M-100 000432 Black Divider Original Condition
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